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Hey everyone Ive decided to part out my drift car, everything must go and after the majority of parts are off rolling shell will be sold also.

S13 blacktop sr20 complete with stock manifold HKS 2510 turbo blitz 550s nistune ecu tough single plate clutch $2800 230rwkw on E85

OR

Engine only $1300

HKS 2510 with lines $900

Blitz 550cc injectors in s13 fuel rail $500

Clutch $200 unknown brand came on the car from japan no slip with 230rwkw

nistune ecu $250

AM performane screamer and jap front pipe $300

decat and exhaust tech twin flutes $350 OR the whole system for $600

z32 with HKS pod and AM performance metal intake $400

Greddy oil cooler kit $450

Koyo 2 core radiator $250

GKTech front mount and piping $220

5 stud conversion with FRONT r32 GTR discs and calipers S15 hubs s13 LCAs with S15 ball joints pressed in REAR r32 gtst discs and calipers hubs

and handbrake cables. everything you need. $1100

bride vios3 with 2 piece bride drivers rail $550

willans 4 point harnass $100

apexi EL2 boost gauge and control unit $280 comes with sensor wiring etc

greddy 60mm water temp gauge $120 comes with sensor wiring etc

greddy 60mm oil temp gauge $120 comes with sensor wiring etc

greddy profec B spec 2 boost controller $320 everything included

tein HE coilovers with swift springs F9kg R7kg height damper adjustable awesome condition $1100

KTS rear camber arms $180

KTS rear traction rods $180

D project rear toe arms $120 OR all 3 rear arms for $420

cusco front strut brace $130

some jap rear strut brace $100 OR both for $200

rays gram lights 57pro 18x10 +12 all round $3000 with pair brand new neuton 235/40 and pair half shagged neuton 235/40 OR without tyres $2800

Located in Adelaide northeastern suburbs really cant be stuffed posting but smaller items I spose I could.

If your genuinely keen ring me 0401 483 906 cheers Chris heres some pics more to come there is still some stuff on the car

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Took some more bits off over the weekend

greddy temp gauges

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apexi boost gauge solenoid and control unit

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profec b spec 2

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bride

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intercooler kit is same as this. cooler is bit dirty but hardly any bent fins and has never been hit. always ran an oil breather so piping is mint no oil film on the inside. comes with all hoses and clamps

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    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
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