Jump to content
SAU Community

Puttin S2 Coil Packs In 33 Gtr

Travs33

By Travs33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Travs33 Apprentice

Travs33

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I recently brought a r33 gtr and it has got the common coil pack problems as it miss badly and sometimes when cold it even stalls. My question is I used to own a r33 gtst s2 and I have a set of splitfires and harness from that, can I wire them into the gtr so I can use those splitfires and also it gets rid of the ignitor box thing?

Cheers,

Trav

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325477-puttin-s2-coil-packs-in-33-gtr/
Share on other sites
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

jjskyline79 Community Regular

jjskyline79

Posted
Posted (edited)
A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Its only a temp fix and also only if the insulation is the fault. If the coils broken down inside all the cleaning and insulating wont do jack

Same with an afm cleaning or re soldering 95% of the time will do jack once its f**ked its f**ked it will nearly always need a new element/hotwire

Edited by jjskyline79
chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted
A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Hi Ash,Better fix for you is URETHANE SEAL COAT,post-36964-1277096851_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1277101931_thumb.jpg

,

Hope this help`s you ,it`s a good fix & is not as messy as SILICONE ,& you can spray them any colour when done,

cheer`s Chuckie.

Travs33 Apprentice

Travs33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

Yer good point, I'll just sell my old ones and buy some new ones :whistling:

Thanks

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
not sure it will work as the ecu will have a differant trigger for the inbuilt ingniters vs the external igniter

Not so sure about that dave, im pretty sure they are both the same trigger. As far as the ecu is concerned, both setups have external igniters. Actually im sure it can be done, as i recently wired an rb26 ecu to run a neo headed car

  • 4 weeks later...
krayzie32 Mentor

krayzie32

Posted
Posted

So is there a wiring diagram for the R32 GTR igniter box or is it straight one to one plus the extra earth as on the igniter. It has 6pins (1 2 3 4 5 6)on the cold side and 7 pins (E 1 2 3 4 5 6) on the hot side

krayzie32 Mentor

krayzie32

Posted
Posted (edited)

^ too true

just done mine then and tested and working perfect...

No need to sell my DIS-005's and buy DIS-001 for my 32 GTR

Have my R32 GTR running External Igniterless using DIS-005 Splitfires and its much cleaner looking to and saved my self a head ache and money buying/selling/swapping Coils only to be undone by the commonly Faulty R32 Igniter/Amplifier :woot:

Edited by krayzie32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...