Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"

Stolen from down under:-

The Series II’s also have a different turbo, Garret with metal compressor and steel turbine. Boost is set at about 90kpa and I believe the ECU is different as well
.

Instruments have silver faces that light up orange, oil press and boost read in kpa vice kg/cm.

Center console is painted a bronze color and has the same radio options as the later GT-R. Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t’s is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

Also the cover for the three gauges in the center has a better finish on it, more like the rest of the dash as does the center vent assy with the hazard button.

The power mirror controls are different as well. And the glove box does not lock. "

is the underlined bit true?? because i have an r34 gtt series 2 and iv been looking for a standard actuator to stop my boost going to 14psi get i do the turbo back exhaust (my car has a 12 psi actuator at the moment) but if this statement is true then i wont need to becuase my turbo will take it yeah ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325535-found-this-on-uk-skyline-thred/
Share on other sites

Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t's is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

is the underlined bit true?? because i have an r34 gtt series 2 and iv been looking for a standard actuator to stop my boost going to 14psi get i do the turbo back exhaust (my car has a 12 psi actuator at the moment) but if this statement is true then i wont need to becuase my turbo will take it yeah ??

is that true about the shifter?

how did you find out that its set to 12psi maddowse? i put mine on a compressor today at work and it started moving at about 7-8 psi (very first movement was at like 2.5!) and was fully open at 14!!!

pic of mine below

post-66386-1277109083_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
is that true about the shifter?

how did you find out that its set to 12psi maddowse? i put mine on a compressor today at work and it started moving at about 7-8 psi (very first movement was at like 2.5!) and was fully open at 14!!!

pic of mine below

yeah did the same but used the restricter on the compressor and at 12psi is when the rod moves (more than just the little .1 mm that it does when you get to 2psi .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...