Jump to content
SAU Community

Boo Boo Help!

butch

By butch,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

butch Collaborator

butch

Posted
Posted

hey fellas

after recently starting the car. i was made aware that there was oil getting into the water pump. after following the rb30dohc zip file with balls to the wall . the only thing i can think of is that the head would need to be re tensioned . now i f**ked up before but when it came to fitting an external vct . so the head had to come off again . but there was no damage to the gasket. and the engine never turning prior i felt it was safe. so anyone with conclusion to my issue.

Head : rb25de with vct

bottom end : holden vl rb-30 series 2

waterpump and oil pump n1:

head gasket : acl multilayer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325670-boo-boo-help/
Share on other sites
jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify.. theres oil in your coolant??? is there any coolant in your oil?

this might be a stupid suggestion as its clearly indicated what to do in the guide.. but was the vct hole sealed up in the head.. as well as welding in additional material around the water return hole to provide additional sealing area... also are you using a rb30 gasket??

ive heard of people re-using copper gaskets after heating them up with a oxy.. im not sure about the multilayered metal ones.. mine looked like it had crush rings so i would imagine once its been torqued down it may not reseal a second time..

Jarrod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325670-boo-boo-help/#findComment-5303186
Share on other sites
butch Collaborator

butch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

whats the possibly that the headgasket isnt positioned properley and its leaking past the gallery on the head and going into the waterpump . would it be as simple as re torqing the head ?? but adding 5lbs more on final talk ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325670-boo-boo-help/#findComment-5303908
Share on other sites
jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

probably very slim if you used 2 locating dowels at either end of the block/head... theres very little free play left in the head gasket once they are sitting in the block...

Did you make sure the little metal rivets in the multilayer gasket cleared the head and block.. i had to dremel small amounts out of my head to allow them to clear so that the head gasket to be clamped down properly.

Im not a mechanic.. you might be better off getting an opinion from someone else.. but i wouldn't advise you to over torque your bolts, because once they pass their elastic limit they lose their clamping ability.

you might just have to pull it apart to work out whats going on then re-do it all and make sure you do it properly... new headbolts if your using standard bolts, new head gasket, check that all the rivits are clearing.. check that theirs enough sealing area around ALL the water and oil galleries on both the head and the block by using the rb30 gasket.. and re-check to see if the head or block is level or requires decking.

Jarrod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325670-boo-boo-help/#findComment-5304229
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...