Jump to content
SAU Community

Question About My R34 Smic Conversion

TUF250

By TUF250,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
Posted

Hi all.

No I have an R33 GTS-T manual. So far my mods include a full service (best mod ever :P ), A turbo back 3inch exhaust with high fow cat, Re-installed the standard airbox with a high flow filter (and a custom scoop to direct air into the snorkle).

I decided to put an R34 SMIC in the car, now before everyone tells me they are no good. My goal with the current setup is to run standard boost and keep the car as streetable adn responsive as possible. Longerterm I would like to put in a bigger turbocharger and a FMIC will be included but thats not where we are up to yet.

The point is I got the R34 SMIC really really cheap so I tought I would give it a go.

Overall Im happy, reasonable easy to install. The car felt a little smoother to throughout the rpm band (not sure why?) and I think it had a little more sting but not much, still worth while mod. The end tanks seemed noticable cooler after a drive than the std ones did.

I also cut every second slat from the exit vanes that are in the front passenger wheel well to let a little more air flow out and away from the cooler

Anyway to my question. The IC came with an air duct which I installed. Great idea, force all the air over the core. My question is would I be better running it or not? Is it more adventageous to have all teh air running over the core? or would it be better to remove it and let the air pass over the end tanks as well at the expense of less core flow?

any thoughts would be appeciated

Jason

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok thats fine and I did know that I was just curious if there was a benifit to having air flow over the tanks but thanks for the responses.

Must admit for my near stock application it was a worth while upgrade, appears to get through the RPM band quicker, definately has more punch, probably due to better flow rather than cooler air though.

I would highly recommend that people pull out their coolers and pipes and give them a good clean, couldnt believe the amount of crap that came out of them.

On a good note, absolutely no shaft play in my turbo which I was excited about :)

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

If you got it for next to nothing with the ducting its def worth while doing it if you dont have bigger turbo plans in the near future.

I did it in mine, but there just isnt sufficient airflow (or not on my particular OEM bar) and even cruising, the thing would get savagely heat soaked. It doesnt take long on spirited runs either for it to be red hot. Seems to have worked well for you though!

On a side note, those vents you cut out, they actually are shaped to draw air through the core as the wheel spins, it sortof "sucks" air through :) So dont cut too many out haha.

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah it seems to work well, for my application anyways, dont think I got as much out of it as the dump pipe and cat but still a solid gain. I can see it being a limitation if boost was to be increased. Being a series 2 bumper it has a pretty open area that the ducting fits nicely around which is probably why it is effective

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

I have a R34 cooler on one of my Series II R33 GTS-T's. The Series II front bar has a nice big opening for the ducting to capture the air and send it through the cooler.

With a standard turbo and air box and just an exhaust, cam gears and a Power FC I am making a very driveable 200kw at the wheels with this set up.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted
nice, I have all of that but the cam gears and tune, what sort of boost was required to get tht figure with your setup?

I am running about 12 psi boost to achieve these figures and the best part is that it is making 100 kw at only 3k compared to my GTR that makes 80kw at 3k. This give the car a strong bottom end and mid range which makes it very driveable and is a credit to the guys at Unigroup Engineering. :rolleyes:

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

shroud should definitely be put on any heat exchanger. Be it radiator, oil cooler or intercooler. Air takes the least resistive path and will scatter around instead of going through the core. Dont think this only applies to people running SMIC's. People should look into ducting/shrouds for their FMIC's too. http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2470/article.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Thanks both. All good advice. Reminds me of drilling through stone wall for drainage pipe 😬 I'll let you know how I get on if I still have use of my hands afterwards 😅
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • The Bogan
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
×
×
  • Create New...