Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, please note this is a question about the PIPING for the fmic, not the cooler itself. id just like to know if the piping for the fmic size matters? on a stock setup. or the bigger the cooler piping to the TB the better?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326082-fmic-piping-does-size-matter/
Share on other sites

No need to have piping larger than your throttlebody as the throttlebody is then going to be a restriction... i.e. stock t/b is what? 63mm? that's 2.5"..

That being said, is there any reason to have piping larger than your turbo outlet??

I think this is covered in corky bells turbocharged book. Well it must be since its covered in the supercharger book also.

Its worth grabbing since it gives you the formulas for working out this kind of stuff. Very informative!

Bubba is right though, only upgrade size if its needed and if your doing from turbo exit to tb.

think about the volume of air a turbo pumps under boost, honestly i cant see an extra half inch of piping will make a noticeable difference to response.

bigger pipes equals more (noticable)lag is a myth as far as im concerned.

ive been told by someone who should know that the bigger the better full stop!

not saying its the rule just relaying what ive been told and understand.

besides restrictions stack up/add up over distance, so yes if ur cooler piping was the size or turbo outlet u would have one hell of a restrictive system.

anyway, not starting an argument, cos i know there r plenty who will disagree with me, just my opinion. :)

I would think that having smaller piping from cooler to throttlebody than from turbo to cooler, would help maintain velocity after the small pressure drop from the cooler.. having piping larger than your throttlebody would be pointless though and having piping smaller than your throttlebody would be restrictive.

I think I need to find me a copy of said book :)

have it here somewhere if you wanna borrow it

ideally the first bit of cooler pipe off the turbo would be a conical shape and get bigger at the same rate as the compressor outlet until you reach whatever size you need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...