Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33GTR Vspec '98 RB31DETT 716hp/534kw 970nm at 20psi No injector left, HKS GTRS's, E85

E85 Steve!

that is rude!!! 534kw!! RB31 and GTRS's! just spastic....

is that 534awkw?

i would like to see a tear down of a motor after it's been running E85 for a while though.

Before i made the switch, we did a compression test just to make sure everything was ok, Trent @ Status said it was near perfect across all 6 - got a test done last week after about 18months on E85, 170,168,168,165,168,170 - don't know if that tells us much but my engine sure is still in tip top shape - i reckon the E85 has helped it stay in very good condition, oh and the tune of course :whistling:

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Out of that report;

The E85 fuel is made to a world standard and 70-85 per cent ethanol.

I don't like the sound of the bit that's highlighted;

The Flex Fuel cars change their maps according to a sensor in the tank that tells the ECU what Ethanol content the current batch of fuel has.

We don't have that luxury, if we tune our cars on say E72 batch fuel and the next batch is E84 or vice-versa we'll have problems.

Just remember that the fuel in the main stream stations is designed for FLEX-FUEL cars; and they don't guarantee an Ethanol percentage as the cars it's designed for do need a set percentage, But we do.

I'll be getting mine for Scotchers when i swap over.

Edited by D_Stirls

I've tried lots of combinations of mixture's, e50-e85, tune doesnt change that much that you'll have to worry, does richen up a little the more 98 you run but does not make any difference to the knock protection ethanol offers, power drops off a little, I doubt you would notice you were running e70 once your idle settled!

Ill be sticking with united CSR.

Powerplus E85 is the best if you can get it.

We have 1 United and 1 Powerplus here. I've had tunes on both, as has joeyjoejoe, and both of us had to get Status to fiddle with the tunes (even though both are E85) but Trent said both times the Powerplus fuel was better. It has a slightly higher ROn rating as well.

Powerplus E85 is the best if you can get it.

We have 1 United and 1 Powerplus here. I've had tunes on both, as has joeyjoejoe, and both of us had to get Status to fiddle with the tunes (even though both are E85) but Trent said both times the Powerplus fuel was better. It has a slightly higher ROn rating as well.

Yeah we dont have Powerplus here, so for months now, the only available E85 on pump is Tapleys Hill Rd United. Other than that, Scotchers race fuel.

Powerplus E85 is the best if you can get it.

We have 1 United and 1 Powerplus here. I've had tunes on both, as has joeyjoejoe, and both of us had to get Status to fiddle with the tunes (even though both are E85) but Trent said both times the Powerplus fuel was better. It has a slightly higher ROn rating as well.

I'd like to play with this powerplus, maybe get some feedback on how it's going long term, I've had problems with filters blocking and pumps getting destroyed when running non CSR E85.

What are people doing about engine oil, is there anything specific that you would need to use? Also, I have heard mixed information about E85 being harder on valve guides and also water vaopur in exhausts.

I've tried lots of combinations of mixture's, e50-e85, tune doesnt change that much that you'll have to worry, does richen up a little the more 98 you run but does not make any difference to the knock protection ethanol offers, power drops off a little, I doubt you would notice you were running e70 once your idle settled!

Ill be sticking with united CSR.

Have you been able to check the difference between E50 and E85 on a dyno? Or is this just seat of the pants?

Light knock etc is very hard to notice at WOT

I tried 50% mix long time ago to try keep my injector duty down, didnt run back to back on dyno, but it was still making insane power on the dyno at 50%, noticed more on the rd, lost response mainly. I've never had any knock register (on the sensors anyway) running e50, e75 or e85, I havnt explored the timing limit's either. 5-7 degree's across the map works well for me! some start at 15 and go from there, I'm happy not to push my 14 year old engine beyond 600 ish rwhp :)

I tried 50% mix long time ago to try keep my injector duty down, didnt run back to back on dyno, but it was still making insane power on the dyno at 50%, noticed more on the rd, lost response mainly. I've never had any knock register (on the sensors anyway) running e50, e75 or e85, I havnt explored the timing limit's either. 5-7 degree's across the map works well for me! some start at 15 and go from there, I'm happy not to push my 14 year old engine beyond 600 ish rwhp :)

pfffft whats wrong with ya mate. go for 750rwhp that where its at ;)

re: oil - 'apparently' the full ester oils like 300V chrono etc are not recommended with E85 - Motul is meant to be having a compatible oil, but not release for a while.

Gulf Western's GRoup V oil says it's ok to use with Ethanol... so i don't know what the go is.

For the time being, i go with the Yank oils, Royal Purple or AMSoil (what i've currently been running, 10w40) as i know they're ok with ethanol. They've had ethanol for longer, so i'm sticking with US products so far.

If we had some Brazilian contacts, we could probably get everything answered :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...