Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just want to know what people suggest doing when starting my engine for the first time after re-installing the engine.

The engine was fully built, run in and tuned on the dyno, and did roughly 1000ks of road driving before breaking a valve guide for no apparent reason and bending the inlet valve on no 4 cylinder.

Anyway..... I then removed the engine from the car unbolted the head and sent the head back to the builder who replaced the guide and the bent valve for me under warranty.

The builder sent the head back to me all set up with cams fitted and the head has now been torqued back down, and the motor is finally now back in the car ready to go.

Im nearly at the stage of starting it again, should i just unplug the coil pack harness and unplug injector harness and crank the motor to regain oil pressure? And obviously bleed the coolant system? Anything else?

Do people think it will be right to just start driving it again normaly.... taking it easy obviously, seeings that the tune hasnt changed?

Or should I at least plug the vipec into a laptop and look at knock? Or do i really need to get it back on a dyno and check air fuel ratios?

Sorry for all the questions just dont want to go through the pain of stuffing it again.

Any help is much appreciated.

Just unlpug the CAS and give it a 10-15 sec crank.

That should do it - make sure you have a good battery :down:

If you've really not changed much else (sounds like cams are the only thing, and thats nothing too major)...

Should be fine just to drive very easy until you get to a dyno just to check everything is in order.

I would certianly check it either way - silly not to for a few power runs after reinstalling the motor. EG could have a split boost hose or something silly you've not picked up. Good to have it in controlled conditions, watching it all closely for a couple runs and so on.

Just unlpug the CAS and give it a 10-15 sec crank.

That should do it - make sure you have a good battery :down:

If you've really not changed much else (sounds like cams are the only thing, and thats nothing too major)...

Should be fine just to drive very easy until you get to a dyno just to check everything is in order.

I would certianly check it either way - silly not to for a few power runs after reinstalling the motor. EG could have a split boost hose or something silly you've not picked up. Good to have it in controlled conditions, watching it all closely for a couple runs and so on.

Thanks for that mate.

As long as startup goes ok and everything seems right i will just take it for a short drive round the block then keeping it under 3 grand or so and check for oil leaks and so on. Then back on the dyno just for peice of mind.

Can anyone tell me if there is any sort of error or knock log on the vipec that I can have a look at when i get it going?

Just to see if it says anything from around the time it bent the valve?

I was there for the tuning of the car and watched them do it but Im not real familiar with the software.

And how do i go about lowering the rev limit once i plug it into my laptop? Wouldnt mind dropping it back from 8600 to around 7500ish just for peice of mind as i REALLY dont want to go through this again.

I'd turn the engine over by hand just to check you dont have any valve to piston touchy touchy...

Once you have checked and re-checked the cam timing, pull the plugs and turn it over by hand untill you get oil pressure, re-install the plugs and start her up.

Then chuck a timing light on it to set base timing.

Go for a drive and monitor the afr's and knock levels... Personally I'd throw it on the dyno just to check it out.

J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
    • I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)
×
×
  • Create New...