Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs Qld 1996 Type X 180sx. Manual Sr Turbo.

coaster
 Share

Recommended Posts

coaster Proficient

coaster

Posted
Posted (edited)

1996 Type X 180sx. Need to sell asap, make an offer. I am in need of a family car as we have a young baby. Compression tested at 160 for all 4! Great unmolested example.

Can sell cheaper without coilovers and wheels if the buyer wishes to negotiate.

Only ever ran on stock boost, the oil gets changed every 4000km, never been flogged, only drinks BP Ultimate. I'm the second owner in Australia. The first owner imported it 1 year ago. I have a baby and we cant afford our house repayments and need to sell. The momo steering wheel has no airbag but I still have the factory steering wheel with airbag in it and the standard castor arms. Also the dash is not cracekd like you see in most 180sx's.

I have recently had the blacktop sr20 compression tested it and It came back with 160 on all 4 cylinders. This is a great example of a type x 180. It has not been boosted above stock and it is a beautiful car to drive. It is a non sunroof model so no annoying water leaks or rust in the roof. It would be the perfect daily curser or platform for somebody wanting to build a car.

mod list:

Exedy brass button clutch, about 5000km's old.

HKS intake kit,

Splitfire voltage stabiliser.

Full turbo-back exhaust: Dump+front pipe, HKS catback system,

Tein super street adjustable suspension with pillowball upper mount, about 5000km"s old

Adjustable castor rods,

Work 16" wheels, the backs are wider than the fronts. 4 Brand new tyres just fitted.

Momo race steering wheel,

Blitz boost gauge,

DVD player,

Pioneer speakers,

Keyless entry,

Genuine Type X seats front bar, side skirts & Floor mats. Also comes with the type x steering wheel. The drivers seat shows almost no signs of wear. Pics don't do it justice so come have a look for yourself. It gets at least 450km's out of every tank. You wont find better than this 180sx.

I may trade for a car of interest as i need a family car.

post-41895-1277519507_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519520_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519526_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519538_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519549_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519562_thumb.jpg

post-41895-1277519571_thumb.jpg

Edited by coaster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...