Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello all

im about to buy a new set of rims for my r34.

now i already have wide wheels with a deep dish and lipped/rolled and flared guards.

the rims i want are

18x9.5 +25 front

and

18x12 +20 front

now the fronts will fit no fkn problem at all

but how far out are the back ones gonna sit out.

ive bought some bolt on flares for it but i wanna know how much they are gonna stick out

i dont know how to use an affset calculator lol

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326487-quick-offset-question/
Share on other sites

Using standard 18-inch '34 GTR rims as a guide, they're 9.0" wide with +30 offset and they sit pretty much perfectly flush on standard GT-T guards. The rear rims (12inch?) that you've got, they should sit about 86mm out from the guards.

Hope that helps :(

Regards,

offset calculator

if you cant use that jules, then please hand you license into your nearest vicroads ;)

lol

vic roads took my licence a long time ago brother.

i get the calulator, but the part that i couldnt work out was how far out they will stick from the guards

but, thanks for the link cuz

it will defianetly be pulled off.

ive already bought the front and rear guards in carbon, its all the way now.

just gotta wait for some more cash to come in a few weeks (tax time) so i can paint the car .... again (2 in 4 months lol)

my mate has 11.5's on the back of his with a -20 offset or something and his guards are just rolled flared etc (like heaps lol) so i dont see y i cant fir them on my 34 with 40mm less offset haha

yeah man ill add a pic of what it looked like before i lost my licence.

since then it has had a cage put in, 2 brides, carbon bonnet and boot

i have a 2630 being built for it atm

and a whole f**k load more carbon on the way.

heres the build thread if u want

and a pic as well of the wheels i wanna get, there nothing special but they r nice and wide

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...tr-t317338.html

post-31553-1277707317_thumb.jpg

post-31553-1277707331_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...