Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a lot of missinformation in that thread.

the compression ratio is the same between the neo and older rb25's.

turbo is different. head has solid lifters and different cams. intake manifold is a better design.

rods are suppose to be GTR rods.. but ive never yet had that confirmed. pistons are the same as is the block.

one has 206 kw . one has 184 . nuff said .

what exactly do you want to know ?

lots of random stuff

neo head has bigger exhaust valves than gtr, combustion chamber is a lot smaller , top feed injectors , new cas . no coil bracket . coils bolt straight to head . takes gay lil oil filter . has bigger exhaust housing on turbo .

RB25DET NEO runs hot burn technology, basically the gases burn at a higher temp which causes less emissions-not sure how that works but it does-closer to EU standards

Which is why the Neos seem to have an 80-82deg thermostat as opposed to the earlier 76.5deg ones.

one has 206 kw . one has 184 . nuff said .

You do realize that the above information is irrelevant dont you? That 22kw would be like pissing in the wind for the R33 motor to make with the most minor of changes to the ecu.

As per OP, major differences with the neo is the head and intake. The neo head has a smaller dome in the and will not work with such things as RB26 pistons etc. The intake manifold is said to be more efficient and uses top feed injectors which are cheaper to outsource.

End result of similarly modified motors is relatively similar :cool:

a lot of missinformation in that thread.

the compression ratio is the same between the neo and older rb25's.

turbo is different. head has solid lifters and different cams. intake manifold is a better design.

rods are suppose to be GTR rods.. but ive never yet had that confirmed. pistons are the same as is the block.

Pistons are definately N1 so they are not the same. Oil pump is a N1 with a small crank collar.... can't remember rods.

bit off topic. but i didnt realise the r33 and r34 gear boxes were a bit different. i got this from a nissan review of thr r34

quote.

Shot peening is applied to the first, second, third and fifth gears of the manual transmission for improved strength and durability to accommodate the higher engine torque. A double cone synchronizer is also provided in the first gear position, in addition to those previously used in the second and third gear positions, for smoother, easier shifting. Moreover, a pull-type clutch for easier operation has been adopted in the manual transmission on turbocharged models.

I don't know the full history of my engine, it has about 120 000kms on it. It had a genuine head gasket, bearings and timming belt in it So it doesn't look like the engine has been pulled apart.

I realise the difference between the pistons, my pistons have the thinker top ringland. (should of said N1 type pistons)

Also is "n" with a single dot above it are the markings for N1?Because my oil pump also has this marking.

I could be wrong.... would be keen to hear from someone who has actually pulled a Neo apart.

I'll be able to throw up a few pictures on here in a week.....

Edited by aleks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...