Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Skyline Inspection Report

MaddehZ

By MaddehZ,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

MaddehZ Apprentice

MaddehZ

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, recently had a R34 GT-V skyline go in for inspection in anticipation to buying.

Came back with positive results, thought i'd share them:

r34results.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

r34results2.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just a question concerning Steering Rack, it is noted that free play is evident.

Also steering pull tends to drift to the left.

How would I go about fixing these problems?

Any comments are appreciated, extremely excited about the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326791-r34-skyline-inspection-report/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

check and ask a mechanic

they sound like basic normal issues to me and most related to wear and tear

i mean some of the reports you get pick up every bloody single issue

and dont focus on the basics, ie engine compression, engine health, and pick out little things like dirty caps etc when more important things could be checked

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

I've heard there are many other checks that is better than the RACV one. State Roads is one of them.

Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to take it to a mechanic that knows lots about imports, especially Skylines.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

use it as a baseline and ask a mechanic workshop (print out the list) to check over them

when i had my ECR33 checked it had 2 pages of little shit and issues

the car had 58,000 on the clock and still going strong with 223,000

so check the specific detail of each item and clarify what they mean

from your report the brake pad issue and keyless entry stand out

the rest seem normal. i mean what 1999 car that is 2nd hand isnt going to have some level of scratches, minor wear/tear and refinishing evidence

FrangaR33 Mentor

FrangaR33

Posted
Posted
An RACV test is not worth wiping your arse with.....i wish people would stop giving money to those (unts

Oh I see what you did there :blush:

When it comes to anything more complex than a Falcon or Commodore I can only echo your sentiments. I have only heard good things about state roads and it seems $500 is a small amount of money to part with to avoid years of pain and thousands of dollars in potentional repairs.

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
Oh I see what you did there ;)

When it comes to anything more complex than a Falcon or Commodore I can only echo your sentiments. I have only heard good things about state roads and it seems $500 is a small amount of money to part with to avoid years of pain and thousands of dollars in potentional repairs.

I don't think it's $500..... In the other thread, people have stated $250-350 :D

Ant97GTR Grand Master

Ant97GTR

Posted
Posted
An RACV test is not worth wiping your arse with.....i wish people would stop giving money to those (unts

+1 for the above

I had a stateroads inspection done on the wifes car before purchase....can't remember the exact amount but wasn't over $250. Very happy with the detailed inspection and would highly recommend.

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Stateroads is excellent. My mate had an R34 looked at and not only did the guy know everything about cars (obviously), but Skyline specific too. He could tell that the gearbox had been poorly rebuilt and that it was missing some factory seal (can't remember what it was).

MaddehZ Apprentice

MaddehZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hey guys so i've considered everything and am going to go ahead and purchase the vehicle.

Where would I take it to clear up the problems now and possibly in the future?

SE suburbs btw

Edited by MaddehZ
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
When it comes to anything more complex than a Falcon or Commodore I can only echo your sentiments. I have only heard good things about state roads and it seems $500 is a small amount of money to part with to avoid years of pain and thousands of dollars in potentional repairs.
I had a stateroads inspection done on the wifes car before purchase....can't remember the exact amount but wasn't over $250. Very happy with the detailed inspection and would highly recommend.
Stateroads is excellent. My mate had an R34 looked at and not only did the guy know everything about cars (obviously), but Skyline specific too. He could tell that the gearbox had been poorly rebuilt and that it was missing some factory seal (can't remember what it was).

+1 for http://www.stateroads.com.au/ , I got my R34 GTT inspected by them before buying it a month or two ago. It's not cheap though at $289 for the comprehensive inspection but you will know heaps more about what you're buying. I also got a quick second opinion by the workshop that did the roadworthy and then took it to Chasers to address one tricky issue.

MaddehZ your RACV inspection report doesn't look too bad provided that the inspector wasn't completely clueless, IMHO. Have a look at the Local Wreckers And Workshops thread for a knowledgeable workshop near you to get that stuff sorted.

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
The car is from power road, and no the racv check was kind of the decider for me as to whether it was a go-er. Wise choice ?

I've heard good and bad from them and I've been there a few times for myself or for friends. But I still reckon RACV shouldn't be the decider, but a proper mechanic. That's my very honest opinion :cool:

If you are spending that much money on a car, you might as well do everything within your budget to make sure everything is okay, instead of buying it then realise it's a lemon :rolleyes:

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

steering play in a skyline is usually basic stuff (quite common), non issue really, even if worse case it was bounced off a gutter and the rack was US then your only up for a max of $500 fitted anyway. Id say rack mount bushes or tie rods are slightly worn.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

To the people saying it's not a thorough inspection based on this fault report...seems to me they've only listed what is wrong with the car (the important part) and not what is fine with it. If it's a well kept car then the fault report isn't going to be very extensive. I'm sure the actual inspection had a hundred more variables to check for than what they listed on the faults report. I guess they could have been more specific with the source/cause of the problem and a possible fix for it but that's your mechanic's job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...