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Ive had no issues without running a BOV and i know of a few other GTR owners running to4z without a BOV aswell and they arent havent any issues.

Id be looking at your oil supply line and also remove and inspect the restrictor inside the turbo for any carbon build up as that will limit oil flow into the turbo and cause the bearing to wear out.

Ive inspected the turbo today actually and it feels like new still :)

ok just to put it into perspective. I had checked the oil line prior to removing the bov becuase I had to fit some flame guard for the line and everything was fine. I had only driven the car at pwercruise 31 a month ago and then twice after. This is when I inspected the turbo and found play. Id hate to see this happen to you just after fitting a new turbo. I do know plenty of people out there run no bov and havent had an issue, its just known that some people come into problems with the garret gt35r series turbo's. Anyway gives me a good chance to upgrade to a billet z :)

Shit I totally forgot to reply to your post mate. I think the main issue with gt35s on rb25/26s is the compressor surge you get at lowish rpm while under abit of load, ie corning out of a bend or uphill. I never get the issue on the street as its either full throttle or baby the car.

On the track i noticed that whilst trying to control the throttle in 2nd gear around a particular uphill bend, the turbo was building more boost than it usually does at that rpm and i was hearing abit of compressor surge. Im thinking its pushing out more air than the engine wants to digest with the throttles half way closed. I believe this WILL result in premature failure of the turbo so before the car goes back out on track again ill have some anti surge slots drilled in :) As soon as i herd this noise I controlled the throttle in a way that it would stop occuring but this meant that my cornering speed had dropped also which i dont care about atm, it was only powercruise :)

As for the damage due to the absense of a BOV when the throttle is 100% closed, im not a believer. Sorry :P

Anywho..

I installed my oil pressure and oil temp sensors today, getting 6bar of oil pressure on a cold start 1100rpm. During hot idle im getting 2.2bar. When cruising at 2500rpm im getting 5bar so pretty happy with those readings :)

While i was there installing the sensors i decided to remove my oil filter relocation mount to clean it, while i was tightening up the fittings into the housing itself the housing snapped :( :( FML - waiting on a new one to come from over east, lesson learnt! The old saying, dont touch it if it aint broke came to mind instantly haha

Also got around to wrapping the loom near my strut tower in some high temp shielding as it looked like a major operation (not really im just lazy) . Ill have some pics up 2moro!

Also thinking of installing a greddy radiator breather thingy i got lying around to get rid of the air bubbles while the car is running that the bleed screw fails to get rid of (or so they claim it does).

Heres a link to what im talking about:

http://www.greddy.co...d/rad-breather/

Just not sure where to plumb all the lines besides the obvious bleed screw near the FPR, somewhere in the rad hose and maybe even the coolant overflow tank?

Anyone fitted one before to an rb26? Some tips would be nice!

i just found this diagram that seems to make sense so might follow it

2zi6fx4.jpg

Edited by snozzle

Another update i should have posted a few days ago:

After many issues trying to get one, the universe has finally said OK, you can now have a washer bottle/catch can unit.....

Picked it up second hand off a forum member, the design of it is really good, has baffles inside the catch can side but i wasnt happy with the welds so i grinded them back to straight edges and painted the whole thing wrinkle black!

tutcul.jpg

hmHWnl.jpg

ViGZKl.jpg

Just gotta buy a little airfilter to go onto the side and shes done.

Also now sporting a blue Tomei sticker on my timing cover for cooler engine temps and extra detonation protection!!

i just found this diagram that seems to make sense so might follow it

2zi6fx4.jpg

Yes it is that simple and yes they really do work well. The only thing I would suggest is that you be careful to not over-tighten the 6x1mm fitting that goes into the head as it is extremely fragile due to the hole drilled through it, and also because its chrome plated mild steel. Could have been my enthuesasm but mine broke so I made another out of a grade 12 bolt.

One other thing I would suggest is to seal the radiator shroud onto your radiator so the fan can only pull air through the radiator, and then seal the radiator to the front of the car by replacing all the foam rubber you are missing around the radiator. An air leak around the radiator either drops the effectiveness of your fan by allowing it to draw air around the radiator, or it allows it to recirculate hot air when stationary. Both are bad. Consider an air leak to be as bad as a coolant leak.

Even if your engine isnt over heating, hotter average coolant temps in the radiator temps mean your clutch fan will be engaging and working harder and directly robbing more power and throttle response at all engine speeds.

The greddy tank, and radiator foam allow my engine to sit on a stable nismo thermostat regulated 68 degrees in 32-35 degree heat like we are getting during the day at the moment.

Thanks for your input mate, much appreciated! Ill work on all the things you have mentioned over the next few weeks as they do make alot of sense :)

Im not getting any overheating issues, never have, but cooler is always better!

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Long time no updates!

Car has been running sweet for the past 6-7 months, however, my time with the car has now come to an end as it is now sold. It's getting picked up on Friday. :(

The only good news i have is that the car is going to be featured in Perth street car magazine so keep an eye out for that :)

Some pics from the photoshoot;

tVYP2l.jpg

zy83Dl.jpg

Lkwisl.jpg

bcxRkl.jpg

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