Jump to content
SAU Community

Competitive Street/track R33 Gtr Now $36k

HKS26T
 Share

Recommended Posts

HKS26T Experienced

HKS26T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I notice the spec list says it's on the gas. - Was that power made with the gas or just E85 no gas? - Was the car ever tuned on 98?

I also read that you were keeping some bits from the car, Whats the current spec list?

Regaurdless, still a truely impressive car...

Any pics as the car stands today?

All provisions for nitrous is available (TWIN) - warmers, purge, switches - however the car is not yet tuned for this.

i was going to do this when i planned to attack the drag strip. :)

Current power is 383AWKW as per Dyno graph on E85 fuel

Car has been tuned on pump fuel with ~330AWKW

Current Spec list is as the Original Post -

However i will be removing the front Canards, Tow hook and respraying the front bar over the next week.

Also getting a second bootlid sprayed as a option without the wing. (This has presented as a hurdle for some potential buyers as it is to 'racey')

Pics of the car as it stands today is as the photos !!

I plan on distickering the signage over the next week to present a stocker look

:D

HKS26T Experienced

HKS26T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Car is momentarily off the market. The motor will be removed, exterior being attended to as per previous post.

More then likely this car will return with r34 motor and rims and a reduced price !!!

:worship:

Bozman1 Proficient

Bozman1

Posted
Posted

Having driven this car a couple of times on the lead up to Superlap/World Time Attack, I can say it is a weapon!

I did 45's on the road/clubsprint tyre, and I still think this car was good enough to win the Clubsprint class at SL/WTAC.

Best of luck Steve with whatever way you go :P

HKS26T Experienced

HKS26T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Having driven this car a couple of times on the lead up to Superlap/World Time Attack, I can say it is a weapon!

I did 45's on the road/clubsprint tyre, and I still think this car was good enough to win the Clubsprint class at SL/WTAC.

Best of luck Steve with whatever way you go :(

Thanks for the kind words ;)

Motor is sold from this car. R34 motor and wheels can be supplied and

Will be sold cheaper then 33k OR a full house rb26 can be supplied

Currently at engine builders - pm if interested!!!

Boz!!! Will be calling u in 2-3 months with a different chasis dedicated to open class and

2011 WTAC = 1:3#s

:laugh:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...