Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Consumption...


Recommended Posts

You might think it's a bit over the top but this for me has been an 6 month study... Nerd :P

I have a V35 2004 model Odometre reading = Under 60000km...

- 76 Ltr fuel tank as should be everyones V35.

Below are figures wearing the following shoes: Khumo Ecsta SPT REAR:275/35/R19 - Front: 245/35/R19

TANK: FULL

Drive - Track - Consumption: N/A

Drive - In a real Hurry - Consumption: 15 Litres per 100km

Drive - Normal - Consumption: 13-14 Litres\100km (I normally drive hard )

Drive - Cruising - Consumption: 12-13 Litres\100km

TANK: HALF

Drive - Track - Consumption: N/A

Drive - In a real Hurry - Consumption: 14-15 Litres per 100km

Drive - Normal - Consumption: 13 Litres\100km

Drive - Cruising - Consumption: 12 Litres\100km

Below are figures wearing the following shoes: Maxis VIP Radial MA-V1 REAR:235/40/R18 - Front: 235/40/R18

TANK: FULL

Drive - Track - Consumption: N/A

Drive - In a real Hurry - Consumption: 13-14 Litres per 100km

Drive - Normal - Consumption: 12-13 Litres\100km

Drive - Cruising - Consumption: 11 Litres\100km

TANK: HALF

Drive - Track - Consumption: N/A

Drive - In a real Hurry - Consumption: 12-13 Litres per 100km

Drive - Normal - Consumption: 11 Litres\100km

Drive - Cruising - Consumption: 10 Litres\100km

Sorry to be Captian Obvious here: But as you can see weight, tyres (in this case size not brand) and driving style makes a big difference in fuel consumption.

I don't expect anyones answers as detailed as these, but Im just curious to see what other peoples figures are for their V35... or even if anyone else cares. :)

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps I'm missing something here but what's the idea behind the 'Tank: Full' and 'Tank: Half' separation?

I'm used to measuring fuel consumption by filling it up to full tank every time (noting litres filled) and then subtracting current odo reading from previous refill's for exact kms....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there's almost a 4.5% circumference difference between a 275/35/19 and a 235/40/18 ...so the 18" tyre will cause your milage to show higher than what you actually travelled. This is what gives the perception of better fuel economy on the smaller wheel.

as for consumption figures, this has been discussed in great detail before. do a search on past threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps I'm missing something here but what's the idea behind the 'Tank: Full' and 'Tank: Half' separation?

I'm used to measuring fuel consumption by filling it up to full tank every time (noting litres filled) and then subtracting current odo reading from previous refill's for exact kms....

The purpose was since it's such a big tank (76 Litres) it will hold a lot of weight when filled full. So half filling up helps with weight reduction which can help with fuel consumption.

there's almost a 4.5% circumference difference between a 275/35/19 and a 235/40/18 ...so the 18" tyre will cause your milage to show higher than what you actually travelled. This is what gives the perception of better fuel economy on the smaller wheel.

as for consumption figures, this has been discussed in great detail before. do a search on past threads.

Good Point there... I never actually considered that. You've wrecked it for me! :D LOL

76 litres?

is yours series two?

Thats 76 litres dry... check out the attachment.

post-74159-1278028215_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The purpose was since it's such a big tank (76 Litres) it will hold a lot of weight when filled full. So half filling up helps with weight reduction which can help with fuel consumption.

Good Point there... I never actually considered that. You've wrecked it for me! :D LOL

Thats 76 litres dry... check out the attachment.

there's other advantages of the smaller wheel...assuming smaller = lighter...then there's less rolling resistance and will give u slightly better milage.

but with how low our cars are...i'd stick with the 19"...plus it just looks better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah True... I only put the stockies 18's back on so I can save my good tyres on the 19's for the track day we're organising... We're looking for racers if you're interested? Check it out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...-3-t324330.html

And speaking of rim weight:

The Stock 18" Rims with the tyres I specified above weigh 22kg's each. set=88kg

Where as the 19" Rims set up I also mentioned above weigh 24.5kg's each. set=98kg

When I wear out the tyres on the 18's I'll put semi slicks on them and use them as dedicated track tyres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
×
×
  • Create New...