Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've noticed since I got the 300GT, that occasionally, maybe once a week, when I shift it from Reverse to Drive, it will pause slightly before engaging.

So when I am reversing out of a carpark and I put it into Drive and accelerate slowly to get it around, it will hesitate for about a second and you get a light jolt. It only ever done this when the car was cold and had been sitting for a while. The transmission normally drives and shifts fine.

A web search gave me differing opinons; from it is normal as fluids need time and heat to work properly, worn shifter bushing, faulty solenoid to impending disaster.

I contacted Nissan and they suggested to do a service as this problem could be caused by dirty transmission oil. The oil level was good and the colour was a bright purple. Nissan did a service (flush, 9L Matic J, conditioner) and also informed me there were no error codes from the TCM. Problem is still there.

So does anyone else experience similar issues and is this likely to end up fatal?

Thanks

you shouldn't need to accelerate hard from reverse to D anyway.

and never rev the car hard after it's been sitting for a while.

just take it easy...if it drives fine when warmed up then dont worry about it.

Mine does exactly the same when cold, I wouldn't be too fussed with it if gear change etc is fine.

I'll take your advice, stick it in N for a sec before D.

Best to give it 30 seconds to warm up before reversing too.

i always put it in neutral for a sec or two after being in reverse, then into drive.

I was told if you go straight from R to D, you could blow the torque converter.

In the skyline/G35 forums, there is mention that grounding cables improve the gear shifting capability of the 5 speed transmission. Has anyone tried these to see whether it improves the engagement issue?

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Yeah I've noticed this as well but only in normal drive mode. Switch it to power mode and it behaves better, holding all gears longer, but obviously economy suffers a tad.

I'm in the process of designing a circuit to take "manual" control of the 5 speed auto and ditching the stock control module. I would like to have direct paddle shift gear changes as i'm sick of the time it takes for it to decide what gear I want, even in manual mode. The shift kit I installed helped the gear change speed but not the ecu gear selection speed.

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Isn't that the purpose of any automatic car though?

To basically get you up into a high gear and keep your revs low, so a) your not revving the ass out of it and b) so you maintain fuel.

I was under the impression that thats why people came up w. tiptronic. To make it 'fun'

Ive got the GT8 and on the motorway at 110, its in 8th speed but if I was in tip mode I could easily be sitting in 3rd (with a heck of a lot more torque down there as well :whistling:)

Personally, peak hour it stays in drive. other times I have a bit of fun. Yeah it chews more fuel but the VQ loves it!

Mine has the 5spd auto and it never goes in drive unless I'm in a 50KPh zone. I always keep it in tiptronic, I think that being able to select the correct gear for a hill before hand instead of letting the automatic get lost in it's decision making process is a more economic driving style for me.

If I leave it in drive mode, I find that I'm more likely to tramp the gas in order to force it to make up it's mind about what gear is required faster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...