Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've noticed since I got the 300GT, that occasionally, maybe once a week, when I shift it from Reverse to Drive, it will pause slightly before engaging.

So when I am reversing out of a carpark and I put it into Drive and accelerate slowly to get it around, it will hesitate for about a second and you get a light jolt. It only ever done this when the car was cold and had been sitting for a while. The transmission normally drives and shifts fine.

A web search gave me differing opinons; from it is normal as fluids need time and heat to work properly, worn shifter bushing, faulty solenoid to impending disaster.

I contacted Nissan and they suggested to do a service as this problem could be caused by dirty transmission oil. The oil level was good and the colour was a bright purple. Nissan did a service (flush, 9L Matic J, conditioner) and also informed me there were no error codes from the TCM. Problem is still there.

So does anyone else experience similar issues and is this likely to end up fatal?

Thanks

you shouldn't need to accelerate hard from reverse to D anyway.

and never rev the car hard after it's been sitting for a while.

just take it easy...if it drives fine when warmed up then dont worry about it.

Mine does exactly the same when cold, I wouldn't be too fussed with it if gear change etc is fine.

I'll take your advice, stick it in N for a sec before D.

Best to give it 30 seconds to warm up before reversing too.

i always put it in neutral for a sec or two after being in reverse, then into drive.

I was told if you go straight from R to D, you could blow the torque converter.

In the skyline/G35 forums, there is mention that grounding cables improve the gear shifting capability of the 5 speed transmission. Has anyone tried these to see whether it improves the engagement issue?

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Yeah I've noticed this as well but only in normal drive mode. Switch it to power mode and it behaves better, holding all gears longer, but obviously economy suffers a tad.

I'm in the process of designing a circuit to take "manual" control of the 5 speed auto and ditching the stock control module. I would like to have direct paddle shift gear changes as i'm sick of the time it takes for it to decide what gear I want, even in manual mode. The shift kit I installed helped the gear change speed but not the ecu gear selection speed.

Also, an annoyance of the transmission in the 300GT 5 speed is its need to get into top gear quickly, obviously to improve fuel consumption. Is this a 300GT trait or does the 5 speed transmissions in 350GT and Stagea also experience the same thing?

Isn't that the purpose of any automatic car though?

To basically get you up into a high gear and keep your revs low, so a) your not revving the ass out of it and b) so you maintain fuel.

I was under the impression that thats why people came up w. tiptronic. To make it 'fun'

Ive got the GT8 and on the motorway at 110, its in 8th speed but if I was in tip mode I could easily be sitting in 3rd (with a heck of a lot more torque down there as well :whistling:)

Personally, peak hour it stays in drive. other times I have a bit of fun. Yeah it chews more fuel but the VQ loves it!

Mine has the 5spd auto and it never goes in drive unless I'm in a 50KPh zone. I always keep it in tiptronic, I think that being able to select the correct gear for a hill before hand instead of letting the automatic get lost in it's decision making process is a more economic driving style for me.

If I leave it in drive mode, I find that I'm more likely to tramp the gas in order to force it to make up it's mind about what gear is required faster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...