Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just came back from the dyno and my GTR did a nice 260 whp at 12 psi with GT-SS ( sarcasm :ph34r: ). My tuner said I NEED to change my cat, we found some piece of the cat on the ground it's really block.

What are my option !? I don't want some cravy 600$ sard or nismo cat. I want to keep the oem look. So, I was thinking about buying a high-flow cat and weld the heat shield on it so I can keep that oem-look.

What do you guys think?

Why do you want to weld the heat shield onto a hi flow cat? Its not like there illegal, people only weld the stock heatshield on when there using a stright pipe to make it look stock.

Hey Cobraa,

If you have a look on Ebay, there are a couple of cats, the main one manufactured by a workshop in western australia that are reasonably cheap $200 - $230 in 4 or 5".

They use 100cpi metal matrix if i remmember correctly and these should flow sufficiently for your GT-SS's and at that price if your really chasing the power you can probably afford to knock the internals out for use on the track :D

I'm after one too

AFter researching Just Jap have the most resonable stock.

Catco/Xforce $175 each bolt on.

450+CFM. $370 for the 700CFM.

I'm probably gonna get the xforce $175 one

*edit btw Catco ones COME with the heatshield.

*edit again, there was a dyno done somewhere, hiflow vs testpipe. No HP difference. Obviously crap cat vs highflow/test pipe would be obvious. So just stick with Hi flow for legality purposes.

There was a test done. Something stupidly low

lame! makes me want to remove mine again, but right now it's the only thing holding back the annoying drone at 2000rpm

X-Force 3" Stainless High Flow Cat

it flows up to 570 cfm...

anyone know what a stock cat would flow roughly?

I got one of these on my r32 gtr making 205awkw @ 6000rpm with just exhaust, pods and 14psi. Seems to do the job good for the price!

X-Force 3" Stainless High Flow Cat

it flows up to 570 cfm...

anyone know what a stock cat would flow roughly?

I would also like to know this!

My muffler shop told me about magnaflow cat.. but that 175$ catco seems right too. Don't know which one flow better.

I got one of these on my r32 gtr making 205awkw @ 6000rpm with just exhaust, pods and 14psi. Seems to do the job good for the price!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SS304-4-High-Flow-M...=item2c51eb3c08

Have a look at that bad boy.

Straight pipes all the way mate

I actually run a high flow catalytic converter business, which drastically increases the flow through the unit whilst retaining the standard shell :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...