Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what ever you budget for it, double it.

And then add a little bit more :D

Actually, those words were the best advice anyone gave me during my engine rebuild planning. It's easy for things to get away from you a little!

32's Rule that is all.....

But for information as to why they rule

I do agree that the 33 box is stronger, but synchro's still break from "quickshifts" and Rough abuse, not so much from power. My 20 box has had plenty of abuse, and so has ZCR's, and there are plenty of 200kw+ cars still going strong with 20 box's. I don't think a 20 box would last long with 250kw+ but below that its much of a muchness, and as for the diff, 32's may be better but are harder to find LSD centre's and parts, so that would be a negative

Yes the Geometry is very similar but R32 standard came with a much firmer and better shocks which have been known to last over 200,000kms, where as the 33's come with a soft shock and spring as thats what nissan thought people wanted comfort and the shocks only lasted around 50,000 hence why most standard 33's feel really rolly, which most people think their weight or size cause (but it doesn't help)

But the biggest handling gain is the Stiffness of the Chassis compared to the 33, with the 32 having the same stiffness as the 32 GT-R. Its why a 32 gts-t will do the same lap time (to a certain point) of similar power and suspension modded 32 GTR, where as the 33 GTS-T's are always behind the 32 let alone the 33 GTR

and even thoug you can find 34's for 12, I'd say more 14-15000, which is double the price of some 32's. Drop an educated 7k into a 32 and you would have a very fast and fun car

My 32 wieghs in at 1270, ZCR's 1320 with Sunroof

And the weight difference is more noticable in corner speed and braking than power

Another thing 32's tend to get 10-11ltrs per 100k, I know the 34's are better than 33's but I don't know the figure

And 100mm wheelbase difference is quite big, 33 to 32 is the same as 32 to New Mini

Oh and for model specific Bias

R31- Drift GTS

R32- Me :(

R33- Frink

R34- Randon I am

All of us will defend our model to death

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

There's a cheap R32 GTR which have been looked after - only driven about once a month in the past 12 months.

PM sent to OBY.

Hey I had a look. It wouldn't let me send you a PM though, something about not having enough posts. I'd love to come and have a look at it but 16k is out of my price range.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

Your best bet is to buy from an enthusiast who has advertised in the For Sale section of these forums... At least three quarters of people who sell through SAU have looked after their car and are reluctantly selling it.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

If you like the looks, your more of a driver than a poser :thumbsup: and find a good one you will never look back.

Saw these on all Classifieds today:

R32 GTS-T - $11,500, a few mods but this sentence might be a typo - "Boost can be wound up to 22 pounds giving 319kw of power."

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819044

R34 GT-T - $15,500 - looks stock

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819415

319kw from an rb20??? wow, i wouldn't believe that, unless he's adding the extra killerwatts the subs add to it :P

Edit - Subs don't make more power, the 2 massive amps make more power :)

Edited by Randon_I_Am

For a 32GTR?

From what I've seen, I would honestly suggest against a 32GTR. While there is no doubt in anyone's mind that they are an amazing car, as others have said above, you will pay for one. Then, even after you've bought a clean one with little to no issues, you won't stop spending money on it there. Be it something breaks and requires replacing, or you want more from it (don't kid yourself, you WILL), it will cost you.

Talk to Kat about 32GTR's and how much they cost :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...