Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did my diff oil today, not too much problem, bolts were fairly easy to take off..

Read somewhere that the diff takes about 1.9 - 2L.. I had the car on level ground with a hand pump siphon but could only manage to get about 1.5L. I tried pumping more in but it was dibbling out quicker than i could get it in.

Should it still be ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep it takes about 1.5 - as long as it continues to come out after you've pumped it in then you're sweet :D

Use an 80w90 for a mostly street-driven vehicle, and circa 85w140 for a track car. Does not need to be LSD fluid for a standard viscous GTS-T diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/#findComment-5354352
Share on other sites

what diff oil did you use? i was looking at doing mine soon.

used castrol SAF-XA rear axel diff oil 80w90, took about 1.5L

get a hand siphon off ebay its like 10 bucks, it saves soooooooooooooo much time.

birds - yep it was coming out quicker than i could pump it in so figured it was full

havent really found much difference doing the diff oil - it doesnt shudder as much if anything

Edited by defari
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/#findComment-5357807
Share on other sites

You probably won't notice much, it's not much of a human interaction device like the gearbox where you can feel through your hand the difference between different oils and fresh/old. Also, diff and gearbox oil can last a long time as it is not exposed to much in the way of contamination like engine oil is. Were you just doing a service interval change or were you trying to fix a diff problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/#findComment-5357906
Share on other sites

just a service. Had no idea when it was last done / ever done by previous owners. Got all the oils cheap too.

The GB oil change though has made a difference, although the gb never crunched etc, i did it for the same reason as the diff (wasn't sure when it was last done) The gearbox was getting a bit "whiny" in the first 5mins of driving in the morning - the whining noise is somewhat gone but can still hear it slightly however i noticed the car wasnt as jerky when i was getting on/off the gas. Also the gears just felt more "solid".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/#findComment-5358234
Share on other sites

:thumbsup::D:) to assuming nothing had been done.

+1

had a charade that was serviced by a reputable shop and the gearbox eventually died, the old fluid came out "like water" the mech told me so it was way past its service interval.

i do my gearbox and diff oil every 40k km, which is what the service manual states

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328114-diff/#findComment-5364307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I found a supplier for an arm in NZ. https://thrashgaragenz.com/products/nissan-skyline-v35-z33-350z-front-lower-straight-arm-rh-side?srsltid=AfmBOopMdfCFDc_8yVZZ9kq5nIngPHRTBzUU8v4SAptJaRO52Wjs0bC6 I looked closely at the photo of that one and the Z1 arm, and it's the same bloody arm. Scratches all match in the photo 😂 How hard is it to change that joint? Also they seem to be listing two options https://thrashgaragenz.com/products/nissan-skyline-v35-z33-350z-front-lower-straight-arm-balljoint-rh-side?_pos=1&_sid=229acde44&_ss=r And now I have no idea what size I'd need yay
    • Ill review it again, from memory when I first saw some of Trailer Park Boys I wasn't a huge fan. I ended up at Letter Kenny after watching Shoresy, which is a bit ass backward, ha ha
    • "lol dunno" either But like you, I can't see any reason they would need to be different LHD to RHD
    • I agree with you WRT the hard top. MX5's may be one of the better looking soft tops but I cannot think of ANY car, EVER that looks better with a soft top vs a hard top (or a designed roof). At all, ever. I also feel this way about the C5 Vette, the Z06 looks horrible compared to it's original form, it has an exaggerated version of the differences you're talking about.  
    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
×
×
  • Create New...