Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Thought some people might be interested in what I have been working on. Its a RB30 with a custom sump adapter I designed that moves the diff section of the sump forward 140mm. I then cut the sump up and got a heap of water cut ally sheet and got it welded. I haven't done the windage trays yet and also it needs another oil drain point int he front of the sump. Sorry about the pics it was just taken on my iphone. This is a sump I want to put into my datsun 1200. There was 10 hours of welding in the thing!

post-29334-1278661881_thumb.jpg

post-29334-1278661931_thumb.jpg

post-29334-1278661952_thumb.jpg

post-29334-1278661972_thumb.jpg

post-29334-1278661988_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

awesome. can't believe I didn't see this before. it's something many people have thought of. wanting to relocate RB26 engines but being hampered by the fact that the diff and front drive shafts are in the sump and so if you moved the engine you'd end up with either some crazy driveshaft angles at best and an undriveable car at worst. very nice solution indeed. :)

excellent work. I'd love to hear how it's going these days?

  • 2 months later...

Don't really know much about this stuff but sounds awesome!

Is this something you would need to successfully install awd into say an R31 or S13 for example.

Any news on the build or any other builds of this nature?

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I didn't have email notifications set up so I only seen this while browsing, I have not really progressed this car much as I have about 50 other projects on the go, Trying to really finish them and get stuck into this thing. I have designed a new way of building the sump with a lot less welding, and would just be generally better in design.

I would be happy to make one of these for someone or supply a modified sump adapter if you would like to buy one. I bought 4 more 26 sumps just to have a play around with along with a 250 amp kemppi tig.

Currently working fly in fly out so it has sort of screwed me of time...

Also I would be able to move the sump forward 170mm but that is the limit, above that I think you would be better of ditching the diff all together and running a "normal" lsd in front of the motor.

Edited by GTR1993

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...