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R32 Tailshaft With Rb25 Yolk


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you guys have any rough power estimations a rb25 front yoke with cefiro/r32 rear tailshaft section could handle?>?

has been balanced in the past.

im running 356rwkw at the moment in my cefiro and had a custom one peice shaft made up which let go at the track smoking 4th and destroyed my driveline beyond beleif. im not keen on that shit happenin again..

any help is good help

cheers guys

tom

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A 2-piece will be inherently stronger as the torque is applied over two shorter lengths as opposed to a single long length.

Has anyone heard of anyone snapping a stock tailshaft? I know uni's and centre bearings flog out but I can't recall a stock tailshaft letting go..

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Im picking up my tailshaft today. Its a R32 GTSt shaft with a RB25 yoke on the front of it. Came to $330 (including brand new yoke). Just had to take a measurement for the length and give it to the tailshaft place.

What was the length and how did it fit

I am doing the same thing myself and would be easier if I knew how long to make it

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i put a 26 box behind my 20, they have a 4 bolt flange to a 6 bolt so was easy for m to measure, its a 1 piece shaft its only 1052mm long

and will handle what i can throw at it. i used gibbs truck parts, but also helps when you would in the industry and have seen how good

there work is and the torque they can handle.

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So many different answers to this haha.

So, I've got a factory manual R32 4 door with an RB25. RB20 gearbox atm but am putting an R33 gearbox in soon.

I believe I'm getting an R33 tailshaft with the gearbox. So can I (a driveline store... not me) just attach the front half of the R33 shaft to the rear half of my R32 shaft and be done with it? Or does it need to be lengthened/shortened etc.

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  • 3 weeks later...

you cannot attach a 33 front to a 32 rear as its is way too long and the centre bearing wont work.

rb25 yoke welded onto r32 front at the correct lenght. only way to do it properly. cost me 190 for shortened length weld yoke on and rebalance of both half shafts

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you cannot attach a 33 front to a 32 rear as its is way too long and the centre bearing wont work.

Really? Because I did just that while I was waiting for my custom shaft to be built and it certainly did work.

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Are you sure it was a r33 shaft because he is a r33 drive shaft with a r32 drive shaft

Im not sure how it could happen

the r33 front drive shaft is heaps longer and so the centre bearing will no longer fit.

Im thinking its was front shaft of something else

r32 on the right

001-36.jpg

003-39.jpg

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Well it came with my gearbox as "33 shaft", dunno what else it could have been from, z32?

Come to think of it, the same place also sold me a supposed 32gtst shaft that turned out to be from a 180sx so who knows!

Edited by bubba
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  • 9 months later...

Im doing thisconversion at the moment but there is no way u can just bolt the front section of the 25 shaft to the 20 rear.

The 20 front shaft has the centre bearing but on the 25 the centre bearing is on the rear so its not possible. Plus the lengths are completely different.

Going to drop the shafts into a driveline shop monday and get the 25 yoke cut off and welded to the 20 shaft.

Edit: just read wax's post 3 post's up. Thats exactly what i meant

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no, not personal preference, just experience.

Not that there is really anything wrong with a single piece if it is made right, but when made for street applications, anything over 6000rpm and a 3inch tube shaft 2.5-3mm thick and 1.5m long goes critical.

Im unsure of how thick mine is exactly, but I dont go bouncing off the limiter or over 6K rpm regularly on the street. Ive never had problems with the single behind my 3lt with a lot of kms on it now. Buy crap and drive like crap you will get problems.

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revving over 6k rpm is driving crap?

The shaft will eventually bend or buckle. Has happened too many times before and I have replaced at least half a dozen one piece tailshafts for customers that come to me with vibrations. 2 of them had other workshops replace literally the entire car almost just to try to get rid of it when all I did was put a second hand wrecker tailshaft back in and problem solved. Other places claimed that it couldn't have been the tailshaft because it was new.

Yes I know that some people run them and have no problems but why would you run a one piece to have that gamble when 1. A two piece shaft is stronger and 2. they aren't really all that much more to get made/buy

It's just tight arses being tight arses that gets us to these conversations in the first place. Nissan chose a two piece because of the length. If the car was 3 inches shorter they probably would have gone one piece to save money too but there is a reason they didn't

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I never said revving to 6kprm is crap. Nor did I ever say that the std Nissan two piece isnt capable for the job intended. What I did say was that if you drive like crap and buy crap, expect to break things.

Making an assumption because its probably your job to fix other peoples f**k ups isnt an accurate sample. For every one you fixed, there could be 500 perfectly fine ones out there running smooth, issue free and have been doing so for a long time that no one ever comments on.

Ive never had issues (vibration or other), but seriously doubt it will bend or buckle. If it does, then ill report back, otherwise ill keep going another 100,000kms, "not regretting it"

Edited by Bl4cK32
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