Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno if it's gonna be the same in WA, but in NSW the engo accepted that Klippan non-inertia reel seatbelts were okay, front and rear.

At the back, you'll find that the c-pillar sheetmetal and floorpan will already have seat belt mountings behind the trim

supplies301.jpg

supplies265.jpg

At the front, it's just the regular Klippan kit, but with the longest available stalk buckle (i think 450mm, cos the mount is so far back on the tunnel).

supplies263.jpg

supplies085.jpg

Umm...apart from seatbelts, I think I didn't have to change or add anything else for rego/engo. Tail lights and indicators (which blink red) were ok for the age of the car.

I think the only hassles I had on rego were things like noise and ride height :)

cheers bro i luv it how i can just copy you :P
  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ahh, so you bought Jash's car? Awesome project :) The KGC10 build thread on PF is my car, whaddya need to know, Denzo? :)

Oh and btw the issues I had with the L-series were 99% caused by the person who built it in Japan. We ended up starting from scratch, and the cylinder head was redone by Knight Engines in Adelaide, and Nathan did the bottom end and assembly. Ran sweet as a nut after that. Puts out 190rwhp and sounds great, so yeah I'm happy with it.

Every single L-block I've worked on has been assembled by some clown that did it wrong. Be it head geometry, distributor timing or general coolant or air plumbing - people just didn't seem to put in the effort (and probably assembled it with no reference materials).

It's always a wise idea to tear any engine like this down for inspection, because you can never really sure what you've got...

An L-6 can easily produce 150% of the OEM output practically forever if it was put together and maintained with care. I've pushed 200% OEM in one L28 via turbocharging for a decade with no mechanical failures.

Every single L-block I've worked on has been assembled by some clown that did it wrong. Be it head geometry, distributor timing or general coolant or air plumbing - people just didn't seem to put in the effort (and probably assembled it with no reference materials).

In my case, the list of things were....

- wrong inlet manifold (the head ports were bigger than the flange = air leak)

- carbs set up for 2L, not 3L :)

- carb linkages set up all wrong

- ignition wiring problem (coil wasn't getting full juice)

- dizzy cap worn, electronic module wasn't earthing

- 2 dud plug leads

- wrong crank pulley, didn't match the timing marks

- mystery cam timing that was 1/2 a tooth out

- MASSIVE cam that wouldn't have worked below 6000rpm anyhoo (278 degs at 50 thou lift!)

- insufficient fuel pump flow

- butchered sump baffles/oil pickup/mismatched dipstick

...and prolly heaps more I've forgotten :) So I'd find one fault and fix it, then be scratching my head wondering why it still drove like crap :D In the end, I tried to fit a street cam to it, and then realised that the retainers, valve stem heights, etc were all non-std. So that's when I threw in the towel and as you suggested, started from scratch. From the first 100m after the rebuild, it was a totally transformed car.

But in the end we got lucky...it turned out the motor was a very recent 3L overbore with 11:1 pistons and heaps of headwork, so all it needed was a freshen up and it pulled 175rwhp straight off the bat. With a bit more tuning it's at 190rwhp currently, so it's all good :)

I guess what must have happened was that the previous owner in Japan started collecting cool parts, then ran out of time/money, and then everything was slapped together very roughly and the car flogged off to be someone else's problem. But the L-series is a great motor to drive behind, tons of grunt, tons of personality :D

I just bought this on Import Monster as a reference come memorabilia item. Should make interesting reading.

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...%20KPGC110%20S5

D

A couple of really good books to get if you are interested in the Hako, are:

G-Works KGC10 Vol 2, which is more on the modified Hako side, got lots of info on wheel sizes, parts available, etc. Not so much of a book on the 2000GT-R but more of a modifier's guide to making a GT-R clone/hotting it up.

http://www.g-works-web.com/?tag=kgc10

The other one is C10 Complete Book, which is purely a reference to the stock cars, so it's chock full of catalog scans, colour charts by year, differences in the badges etc by yr, differences between the variosu trim levels, etc. Pretty good if you want to create a realistic GT-R clone, since it has all proper info on the real thing.

http://www.geibunsha.co.jp/shoseki/car_c10skyline.html

If you're in Sydney, the Kinokuniya bookshop has copies of both, the last time I was there

Edited by Babalouie
  • 1 month later...

Danny

My old man had the seat belts in his old 180B SSS replaced with inertia reels. They would have originally been a similar setup to the '10. They even matched the blue colour of them and are much nicer and period correct than the plastic Klippans.

Will find out where he had them done if you're interested. Here's his beast:

http://www.sillbeer.com/2009/02/dads-datsu...-new-shoes.html

Cheers

Brendan

Edited by VSPEC32
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

got a c10 coupe as soon as i pay for it , will you take a shopping list of of bits needed (second hand and aftermarket ) ? ,and which aftermarket companies do you deal with ? ( fibreglass panels etc ) . ta will

  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...

What do ya know.......its back from paint. my legs seriously went weak seeing it in person.

The job looks great, pity about the mess around with the other guy or there'd be more progress.

Interior is out getting finished and everything else is stashed away ready for after-pits mods.

with his j-land contacts, the collection of awesome rare parts denzo has collected for this will blow you away.

Stay tuned for more progress, will keep updating the site with photos as i get them. Sorry bout the iPhone quality.

http://japaneseperformancecentre.com.au

IMG_0160.jpg

IMG_0176.jpg

IMG_0066.jpg

IMG_0175.jpg

I'll get better pics from danny next time i'm down.

(The email attachments didn't work mate.)

Socrates, I know of a really good L series builder here in Perth. Same person who used to tune my webers.

Put the info up, will be handy for others who stumble across this post or searching the site. Does this person do L4's and L6's?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...