Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

found out what it was when i removed the cam cover's....... i had the inlet 180 degrees out :)

i had taken the inlet cam vct stuff apart and not re-aligned it properly.

all fixed now

Nope, 180 degrees out will not bend valves.....it's just like working the engine in reverse.

You are very lucky.

Buying decent cam gears is a start...only the cheap shitty ones come with two marks....oh and the HKS ones...but once again, shitty.

Nope, 180 degrees out will not bend valves.....it's just like working the engine in reverse.

You are very lucky.

Buying decent cam gears is a start...only the cheap shitty ones come with two marks....oh and the HKS ones...but once again, shitty.

i still have std cam gears.

i had it so both in & ex would open at the same time.

next time i will read a workshop manual, instead of just jumping into it.

i still have std cam gears.

i had it so both in & ex would open at the same time.

next time i will read a workshop manual, instead of just jumping into it.

wtf?

That would not be 180 degrees out. That's more like 60 degrees out. You are damn lucky!!!!!

Precisely why ppl should not attempt major repairs at home unless they have someone who knows what they are doing with them. Think about how many dollars you would have saved if the pistons collected the valves

My understanding of what happened (and i could be wrong) was that the VCT cam gear was completely pulled apart, then when put back together it was done incorrectly which moved the position of the TDC mark. Then it was put onto the intake camshaft, all TDC were marked up correctly and the belt was put on. So it appeared the belt was on correctly, when looking at the TDC dots, but in fact the VCT cam gear was wrong.

Is that right? Because other than that explanation I don't understand how you can do it incorrectly, the cam gears can only be placed onto the camshaft one way and the dots can only align up one way.

Edited by PM-R33

Yes the stock inlet cam wheel is adjustable, but from the back so it's a bit of a mission.

Sounds like someone was attempting to adjust the inlet wheel and then didn't re-assemble it all correctly.

Then the normal timing marks would all look to be OK, but the wheel would be referenced wrongly to the cam.

Good way to do some damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...