Blaq.boi's Stag Is Finally Here... Already Has Some V.i.p Stuff On It!
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings. This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice. -
Grease the poly bushes as your first order of business. Moly grease. Spanner check everything else. Inspect LCA inner bushes. -
It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler). There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.
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I've had a 9280, 9280's in stock form produce a bit of a whine when coming on unlike the 9180 so you may already like the turbo sound as it is. -
So everytime the car is changing momentum, say you were going forward, and then you brake, itll do the creaking and then wont happen when you brake again while still going forward. but once you put it into reverse and then you brake itll creak, but wont creak any more after while still reversing. And then again, when you go back to forward and the first time you brake, itll creak. ( note will only happen the first time you brake when traveling a direction ). Wont happen, when youre going up speed bumps or hitting a pothole etc. Sound comes from Front left area. I'm unsure as to what might be causing this sound so if anyone has any suggestions please. Ive got a set of R34 GTT brakes that I will be installing soon too. (and disregard the gutter rashes, from previous owner(s)... ) Otherwise, it has a shot set of Tein Coilovers, original bushings except poly on tension rods. Car has 138k kms. Video reference :
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