Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Factory Oil Cooler

UnCo

By UnCo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

stagea one is better. no cooler or should i say warmer... ideal for a relocator conversion. but the new ones are all aluminuim. early ones (one of a motor) has a steel thread.

or if you want a rb20 one is better again. but straight out of the block, not angled. new ones have a steel thread. but you have to use a toyota filter (z418) or any with a relief valve in it)

dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
Posted

I have several laying around my shed you can have one for free if you are going to use one. They are pretty useless and you would be better off with a relocation kit and aftermarket oil cooler but as i said if you do want to use a factory one you can have one for free just pay the freight or if you are on the gold coast or brissy area just pm me and you can pick one up.

EdGTR Enthusiast

EdGTR

Posted
Posted

jJust to clarify when you guys say to get rid of it and fit a relocator and external cooler dont they replace just the filter and is there a housing off a different rb that still has both the pressure and temp fittings? I there any kind of aftermarket cooler that replaces just the heat exchanger part and leaves all the other bits exactly the same? Obviously you would have to jump the coolant line back into itself.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted
what about (factory oil coolers) my 1993 gtr has an oild cooler mounted in the front passenger side vent... is this a factory setup??

i was wondering about it???

cheers

Not factory, the factory oil cooler (oil/water heat exchanger is a more accurate description of it's function) is as what the the picture suggests, attached to the block.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones.

The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also.

So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Yeah i hear ya,

but what i mean is, alot of the Nismo equipment is offered on a new purchase.. so essentially its a"factory"option. Note the quotations.

And i dont believe there is a bolt on replacement for the factory oil warmer/cooler.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted
Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones.

The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also.

So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?

The RB20 doesn't have the factory oil warmer, so the taking the mount from it (housing, bracket? im not sure what the name of it is) is popular when you have an A/M oil cooler.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

$120 fron nissan for a rb20 one.

unbolt your oil cooler/filter housing and bolt the 20 one in its place. use a z418 filter, not the genuine nissan 145 as you no longer have a relief valve.

(rb20 has it on the block, where as rb25/26 has that part blocked off and instead has them in the oil cooler/filter housing)

if you are using a remote filter, put the oil pressure sensor in it there, and lengthen the wiring to it. if not then use the 1/8 npt port to the rear of where the filter/cooler housing bolts on to the engine. (at about cylinder 5 along the block)

nismo has a replacement housing, but its like $1000. it has 2 -12an fittings where the cooler sits.

also nismo has a oil cooler kit, said housing, with a custom aircon condensor with a 25 row oil cooler integrated into it. i have one in my garage. i had the brocher for it but i lost it. was an option for the aussie deliverd ones.

post-19586-1279960505_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...