Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

since ive had the nisetune done ive had an issue a few times now.

very occasionaly when i give it a gut full my motor has just cut out quickly then goes on fine a split seond later. its just like the whack you get when u hit the speed limiter which im lead to believe is a fuel cut.

im thinkn its the fuel pump strugling or on its way.

the guy who done the tune said it done it to him once so loged it done a few more runs and couldnt get it to do it again. he also said that there wasnt a weird spike of air/fuel or sumthn like that so he wasnt thinkn fuel pump but wouldnt hurt to upgrade anyway.

also my boost is droping from 14 psi to 9 and we came to the conclusion its to do with the stock BOV. has anyone one else had a boost issue with em.

The stock ecu mapping may cause this if the factory map/boost sensor (neo engines) reads 14psi unless it is modified within the Nistune software as far as I am aware. It may be worth asking the tuner about this.

Obviously coil packs are common causes of misfirign under load but your issue doesn't sound like this at all.

Alternatively it might be worth checking the AFM/wiring/plug for faults.

(edit: disconnect the boost sensor per lilcrash and block off the vaccum line)

cheers for the info il drop into the tuners on way home tomoz and have a chat to him bout it and sort it out.

yeah definetly not a misfire and ive gone over the afm.

i might try blocking the stock BOV and see if that sorts the boost problem. if so ill probably just run 12 psi and see if it still makes 200kw

disconnect the boost sensor per lilcrash and block off the vaccum line ???????

I don't know if anyone else had noticed but for future reference the boost curve is alot sharper when disconnecting the boost sensor, so much that it causes my exedy heavy duty clutch to slip. Exsessively, so also for future reference exedy heavy duty is only good for stock boost( the exedy rep told me it would be good for about 360kw )

Good luck at the tuners :D

pork hunt...

how r ya mate

towards the back of the coil pack cover there is an orange and black round thing (just under the strut brace... its inline with a boost line going from the front sumwhere to the back of the engine bay

cut this hose... block it up with bolt and hose clamp

it will tell the ecu its not hitting any boost... therefor not letting it hit boost cut (15psi).... id guess its only at night/when its f**kn cold that its happening??

chef :D

all the info you need here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/By...mp;hl=boost+mod

Edited by chef_stagea

sweet as cheers m8. il do it as soon as i can get it on the rollers and invest in a boost guage i think. i dont wana be pushn 14 15 psi on stock turbo for long. and yeah it makes sense that its been hapening more when its been fkn cold

I'm inclined to say it's the AFM playing up. There's a few methods of repair. Either simply spray carby cleaner (or similer) into the mesh, to clean the sensor. If this doesn't work some people say opening it up and re-soldering the joints works.

I did both of these to my AFM, neither worked. I replaced the AFM with another second hand one and then no more cutting out. My car's NA but it still sounds like the same problem.

Edited by -Jimmy-

ok just cut and blocked the pipe runing to the boost cut thing and took the car for a quick drive. it has got rid of the problem but now the car comes on boost a bit later i think. its hard to tell i need to go for a decent drive were i can open it up propelly.

i really want to get a proper boost guage aswell the stock one is f**kn stupid!! :bunny:

oah and so doesnt anyone think my stock bov is the problem for me loosing 5 psi of boost through the run?

i wonder if the wastegate needs lookt at the cars got 170k on it now? :huh:

2 months and i should be able to get my3076 :(

i just want this bloody car to run right for once, but im not goin back to stock now!

Stock bov will hold up to 13 14 psi... Look at a turbosmart kompact, looks good! Some have said it should hit boost quicker with the blocked hose, what are you using to control ur boost? This is most likely ur problem...

ok just cut and blocked the pipe runing to the boost cut thing and took the car for a quick drive. it has got rid of the problem but now the car comes on boost a bit later i think. its hard to tell i need to go for a decent drive were i can open it up propelly.

i really want to get a proper boost guage aswell the stock one is f**kn stupid!! :bunny:

oah and so doesnt anyone think my stock bov is the problem for me loosing 5 psi of boost through the run?

i wonder if the wastegate needs lookt at the cars got 170k on it now? :huh:

2 months and i should be able to get my3076 :(

i just want this bloody car to run right for once, but im not goin back to stock now!

juat a cheap manual t valve that the guy who sold it to me swears by are good. but im gona have to try anotherone and see how it goes.

i dont think the boost came on as hard but hard to tell i dont wana thrash it without seeing how much psi im runnin

anyone got a cheap boost guage for sale?

when the AFM reads too high or the boost sensor reads too high (more likely the afm), the ecu will cut fuel for a split second. Basically it needs a better tune - if you have a piggyback ecu that bends the afm signal, then it is not bending it enough and still hitting the upper limit set by the ecu. it cuts fuel to protect the engine in case the engine is getting more air than the afm can reliably read.

shouldn't be necessary to disconnect the boost sensor - just tune the afm signal better (on a dyno).

18psi on the stock BOV on my car.

yup... same. compressed the tophat a little to make the spring slightly 'stronger'

I wired in a FCD (fuel cut defender) to fix this exact issue on my stag.

Comes down to more tuning required.

The FCD allows you to 'cheat' a little with the tune, although if it pings with the FCD there arnt any safeguards left to hold her back a little, so be warned!

ehhh shit tune... boost works FTL. Did it the first time the day I picked it up from them when they tuned it called them about it and said it behaved fine for them.

Turbo tune it is from now on..

It's hitting boost cut tho!! If you block the pipe off ull b right, now u need to c what psi ur running, stock turbo = 12psi safe, bov isn't super legit over 14... If it fails ull do a turbo no questions!! Afm can't read over 14 or so psi... See what your running and go from there. But I think it's time to go manual boost control!!!

when the AFM reads too high or the boost sensor reads too high (more likely the afm), the ecu will cut fuel for a split second. Basically it needs a better tune - if you have a piggyback ecu that bends the afm signal, then it is not bending it enough and still hitting the upper limit set by the ecu. it cuts fuel to protect the engine in case the engine is getting more air than the afm can reliably read.

shouldn't be necessary to disconnect the boost sensor - just tune the afm signal better (on a dyno).

if you have nistune you can disable the stock boost sensors limits in the tune. while others have said the stock BOV will be up to the job, in my case it started failing at 14psi, it was clear that it was the BOV opening as i could here the whoosh as it released and watched my boost drop rapidly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...