Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bov opening at full throttle... relesing all pressure in a slit second will cause the turbo to spin way more than what its ment to...

mines failed at 14 aswell... i cant c this 'compressing the housing mod" being at all legit!

Edited by chef_stagea

Not saying your bov is faulty but there is a mod suggested by a tuner. Take the bov off and you'll see a small hole about 1.5mm. Ideal: find a threaded screw or bolt and tap the hole to suit. Put the screw in and mark where it sticks out. take it out and cut it off there and cut a slot in it and screw it back in. Not so good: get a self tapping screw and do the same.

I ended up getting a GTR bov. It bolts up fine but the hose is bigger so you have to adapt the plumb back.

Not saying your bov is faulty but there is a mod suggested by a tuner. Take the bov off and you'll see a small hole about 1.5mm. Ideal: find a threaded screw or bolt and tap the hole to suit. Put the screw in and mark where it sticks out. take it out and cut it off there and cut a slot in it and screw it back in. Not so good: get a self tapping screw and do the same.

I ended up getting a GTR bov. It bolts up fine but the hose is bigger so you have to adapt the plumb back.

whats the advantage of this?

do the c34 bov's have this? i didn't look last time i had the bov off

It's been debatable for a long time if that does any good. Some say yay, and others nay. But for 30sec worth of effort, it doesn't hurt to do it!

C34's along with all other rb25's have it.

Glad I found this thread. I've been turning up the boost on my series 2 and I think I hit fuel cut. I asked on the regular skyline pages and was told that disabling the boost sensor could be a bad thing because it leans out your AFRs, though I'm running rich (around 10.5) at full boost.

My Stagea has FMIC, Walbro,Iridium 1 grade colder plugs,new coilpacks,Apexi induction kit,decat,80mm cat back exhaust,gizmo ebc and hybrid steel internal turbo.

  • 7 months later...

Reviving an old thread. My S2 has started doing this recently, i noticed my boost had dropped from everyday 10psi to 6psi according to my boost gauge, so i turned up the Turbotech boost controller but when i floored it, engine seemed to cut out at full boost, which still was under 10psi according to the gauge mind you. Never had this problem before even up to 12psi. Is the MBC shagged? or is the boost gauge wrong?

What should I do? Looking at getting Nistune done with the next big service, would that fix it?

Edited by webng

Sounds like a boost/fuel cut to me.... Mine does it to

Yeah that's what it feels like, but why all of a sudden now? Maybe the boost gauge is buggered? Or maybe there is a boost leak somewhere? Whatever the case, i'll be booking in for the Nistune done this week I think.

i know im an M35 owner, but I will be interested if you find a result to fix the issue.

mines doing some sort of airflow cut at 20psi. but the airflow meter is clamped at 4.70v(well before AF Cut)

so i'll be keeping an eye on your result.

Have you checked the vac lines to the boost gauge? Could have a hole in it. It sounds like your hitting the factory ~14psi boost cut the S2's have, if your gauge/lines are faulty and the gauge is displaying a lower reading, then you may have turned the boost up too high and are hitting the limit.

Just a note on the boost dropping off- Why has no one said anything about the turbo can't make 14psi all the way to redline, shit it cant hold 10psi to redline, the VCT is there to fill the hole in the turbos abilities. I've got a turbosmart type 3 and its still loses boost. The boost drop off is because the turbo is too small. I'm pretty sure it's just one more factory floor for the poor old stag. Thanks nissan :(

If it is the boost cut, R and R or suchlike then a tune with a Nistune will fix it.

It just occured to me... would putting 100ron fuel cause R&R?

Cooler weather, might be hitting a tiny bit higher boost.

But never happened with colder weather before.

Have you checked the vac lines to the boost gauge? Could have a hole in it. It sounds like your hitting the factory ~14psi boost cut the S2's have, if your gauge/lines are faulty and the gauge is displaying a lower reading, then you may have turned the boost up too high and are hitting the limit.

This sounds possible, will have another look at the lines. Edited by webng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...