Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market. Given its a Japanese car, I'm gonna say its JDM already!

Other then that, plenty of carbon fibre, some BRIDE seats with full BRIDE interior trim, stretched tires, epic fitment wheels, your well on your way!

Well this is what I have in mind:

Nismo Gear Shifter (Dildo style silver :thumbsup:)

Exhaust/Extractors (Not a cannon tho)

Black Window Tint

Rims

Body Kit (400r or V1 Aero Style)

Cold Air Induction

Bucket seat's/Harnesses But Need Wide Bucket Seats Cause Im a fat bastard

Nismo Smoked Side Indicators

Xenon Head-Light Conversion

White L.E.D Globes Replacing Dash Dials (but i dont want to do it myself, i did it on my previous car and didnt like pulling the cluster apart, it changed the dials)

Thats about it...

But i need part names and brands etc cause i have no idea etc. My car is a white series 2 R33 GTS

is this thread for real??? like seriously am i entering a troll thread?

guys?

help me out here?

are you actually from hiroshima?

im scared.

okay. you dont understand offset, ill try explain. imagine a wheel, there's two parts to the wheel. the "face" and the "rim" (barrel)

say the rim of that wheel is 8 inches wide. the centre of that width is considered a zero offset. meaning it's mounting face offset neither negative nor positive.

if the mounting face moves "inward" it is a negative offset. positive if the mounting face is toward the outer of the rim.

soooooooo a 8in +35 offset, means, the mounting of the face is 4inches into the wheel. but 35mm toward the outer of the wheel.

as for your dumbass "im only 4 stud" arguement. SHUT UP. you want rims? i'll get you rims if you're in australia.

windingseven-img581x600-126633877763n4dy25743.jpg

work VS

18in by 8.5 +19 offset in front

18in by 9.5 +19 offset in rear

with tyres. about $1600 delivered to victoria. so freight to your city may be extra.

dfrph821-img600x450-1278069102rajsy559673.jpg

Work meisters. black. would look GREAT on a white R33.

18in by 8.5 +24 all round

with tyres

about 1600/1700 deliv. to victoria

its very easy to get your car looking "JDM"

your car IS jdm. i don't get you, man...

where are you located? want some rear coilovers? PM me.

EDIT: i'm 4stud. proud of it, too!

zzcefiro1.jpg

Edited by Mr Eps

Juz, I'm running 18x9 with +26 offset. A bigger offset would mean that the wheel sits further inside the car; as it is, running 255/35/18's, I have the possibility of scrubbage on a big dip, so +36 would be better as the tyre sits more under the car, and away from the lip.

I suggest GTR skirts and rear pods, cause they're sleek and subtle, and as for front bar, nothing too ostentatious. I originally had the GTR bar, but now running Top Secret... You know how it looks :thumbsup:

Bronze would be good... I'd stick with 5 or 6 spoke, I do quite like the RSGT's from Ozzy Tyres though...

http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/Content_Common...47CAA7&pg=6

In the middle there. I rang a bit ago for someone I know; for a set of 18's, they're after $1800 or so including (shitty) tyres. To do that, you'd need to do the stud conversion from 4 to 5 stud.

A few of those other things on your list I've got; if you want I'll take some photos on the weekend and shoot them your way.

Edit::

Shhhh, Eps. Shhhh *pats* He's a youngin, so he's still learning :ph34r:

I reckon...

- For wheels look at wheels by XXR, Axis eg. XXR 002.. 4 stud, come in good offset, are wide etc.. make for a tough stance and are pretty cheap and come in good colours eg Black/Silver Lip.

- If you have the stock bodykit on your S2, leave it... nothing is more stupid then a over done bodykit on a non turbo skyline eg 400r / GTR/ whatever, it looks ricey.

- Clear Side / Front Indicators.

- Lowered.

- Extractors + 2.5" Exhaust, Oval Muffler Rear.

- Cheap Metal Intake pipe + fully sealed airbox + 3a pod filter OR just have a high flow panel in stock box not much dif.

- Drift Lip spoiler.

- Black/White Colour scheme of things.

- Debadge.

haha no i just don't get it cos the thread starter has been around for a while he's made some GREAT posts i serioulsy thought he was joking!!!

i say don't do body mods. it's a waste of time on a GTS (no offence) same with engine mods. maybe get a NEAT chrome exhaust tip to freshen it up. MAYBE get a black boot lip. nothing else. you're never going to make a GTS go fast, so don't waste your time! (sorry!)

get SWEET coilovers. lower your stance. get wheels. these are things that will ADD value to the car really.. (or at least stop depreciation!)

as for bobjane / ozzy / drifteks / tempe. XXR / SPORTMAX / chinese shit PLEASE STOP THE COPY. get genuine wheels. or you'll be buying another set in a few months time (that's my opinion) japanese companies spend millions of yen and time developing and designing their own wheels which are quality, and rare. every time a cast iron chinese rim gets bought over the counter - it's extra stress on the industry who INVENT and create. Ueno's business (Vertex) suffers terribly because of these people and he designed the parts and manufactured them in the shop that he opened!!! so please.... don't go copy rims.

get the special ones :nyaanyaa:

CPD

onto you - why do you want new headlights? have you tried a re-condition? if you REALLY need new headlights (as in you've tried everything to get them looking nice there's a REALLY nice pair i can show you... i'll PM you the link

actually - i'll just post it here in case you aren't good with computers :)

CLICK THIS LINK

Edited by Mr Eps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...