Reimax High Flow Oil Pump Rb30/26dett

[BoostdR]

I have just started up my new motor to find it blows smoke from the turbo's due to the turbo bearing housing having to much pressure and pumping past the turbine ring. My oil return lines are a -8 going into a -14 T-Piece on the block in the stock location. HKS have a kit that does the same so the T isn't an issue.

I am however not sure if my return lines are to small and or my Reimax oil pump(huge gears) is pumping a stack more oil than std(definate). I plan on installing some .8mm restrictors into the oil banjo bolts and see how it goes. If that doesn't work I will look at my oil drain sizing. Will check my PVC aswell to make sure the crank case doesn't have to mauch pressure.

Has anyone had experience with this issue and aftermarket oil pumps?

any idea's?

pls help

Matt

Edited July 20, 2010 by BoostdR

[Duncan]

what turbs?

mine are bush bearing (r32 N1) and have no oil restrictor - i have the same issue with my nitto oil pump.

presumably it is not such an issue with ball bearing turbos which should run an oil feed restrictor.

[BoostdR]

Turbo's are HKS GTRS (Garrett gt2860R-10)

They are ball bearing, so should have a prefitted restrictor....but that would suit the std oil pump.

Here are the specs of my pump....pumps alot more

The Reimax Oil Pump is the perfect replacement for the Achilles Heel of the RB26DETT. The OEM unit is notorious for starving tuned RB engines of oil at high RPM`s.

The Inner Rotor size has been increased from 77mm to 85mm, and the thickness of the rotor teeth has gone up from 11mm to 12mm.

The metal composition of the pump has also been changed from Sintered Alloy to SCM430H.

At 6000rpm, the Reimax High Flow Oil Pump flows 70L/min VS 47L/min from the OEM unit.

The pump's Regulator Valve opens at 7.2kg/cm2 (+/-0.3kg/cm2) of pressure, at 2000rpms, or when oil temperature hits 80 degrees Celsius.

Not only does this item boast great figures, it has also proven its build quality in Gr-A races throughout Japan.

[GTScotT]

Are your turbos new and are you sure it is your turbos?

Start with the basics.

[The Dan]

1. That pump flows similar to an N1 oil pump

2. Those turbos aren't smoking because of the oil pump

Check your engine by doing a compression and leakdown test and then if they come up ok, check the breather system on the cam covers to ensure nothing is blocked

[R31Nismoid]

Well aside from the fact it's not actually oil starvation that is the achillies heel (its infact the head/restrictors, given 1ltr overfill fixes it)

You might well need inline restrictors.

Seems a few people running high volume pumps have this problem as the internal cartridge restrictors aren't enough - no idea why given plenty of others have no issues (strange)

You'd want them the same size as inline, don't wanna go any smaller.

I don't think it'll be the drain either as you've stated - its the same as what comes with the kit.

You could always just run one turbo for 1min and workout the volume approx if you are worried thats the problem

[BoostdR]

thanks for the replies. I will keep you all informed on my findings.

What size is the internal oil restrictor?

I would love for it to not be the turbo's and just my rings taking a while to seal. The motor has only been run for 10min since rebuild around the block.

[BoostdR]

1. That pump flows similar to an N1 oil pump

2. Those turbos aren't smoking because of the oil pump

Check your engine by doing a compression and leakdown test and then if they come up ok, check the breather system on the cam covers to ensure nothing is blocked

Hi Elite. I know you have a stack of experience on the subject. Can you elaborate why it can't be my turbo's? I have braded oil return lines that don't go directly down also as the std do. i think the front even travels up hill for a very small time before going into the Tee as its mounted on a slant...I'll post a pick when I get home in 30min.

matt

[The Dan]

Hi Elite. I know you have a stack of experience on the subject. Can you elaborate why it can't be my turbo's? I have braded oil return lines that don't go directly down also as the std do. i think the front even travels up hill for a very small time before going into the Tee as its mounted on a slant...I'll post a pick when I get home in 30min.

matt

Ok yeah if you could posts some pics that would be good.

The oil pump does not flow enough to bother those turbos. So it's gotta be something like the oil drain, the breathers, or the rings. Depends on what the builder used to assemble the engine. If he used engine oil (I cry when I see this) then it will smoke for a while.

Also depends on if the engine failed before, you can have a lot of oil built up in the exhaust from a previous engine failure.

Make sure you don't run that thing at idle for any more than 1 minute. Get it on decel on hills as much as you can and hold the foot brake in 5th while climbing hills. Will bed rings in better that way. But follow your builders instructions if he has given any

[BoostdR]

Ok yeah if you could posts some pics that would be good.

The oil pump does not flow enough to bother those turbos. So it's gotta be something like the oil drain, the breathers, or the rings. Depends on what the builder used to assemble the engine. If he used engine oil (I cry when I see this) then it will smoke for a while.

Also depends on if the engine failed before, you can have a lot of oil built up in the exhaust from a previous engine failure.

Make sure you don't run that thing at idle for any more than 1 minute. Get it on decel on hills as much as you can and hold the foot brake in 5th while climbing hills. Will bed rings in better that way. But follow your builders instructions if he has given any

He uses nulon assemble stuff...real sticky white coloured goo. No engine failure before and a new exhaust.

[GTScotT]

Just give it to me, Ill fix it. FYI you have one of my dream setups.

I dont personally see those returns being an issue. How is crank ventilation taken care of after the build? Running stock or has added breathers/catch can?

+1 comp and leakdown to proceed.

[EdGTR]

Just for another piece of info i just fitted a pair of genuine brand new hks gtss to my 26 and in the kit it came with 2 replacement banjo bolts with very small restrictors in them to replace the standard oil feed ones to the turbos. i have heard that oil flow needs to be reduced to ball bearing turbos a few times in the past as well. Sorry i cant tell you what size the restrictor was in the bolts but it was alot smaller than the one in the turbo cartridge.

Yes a comp and leakdown test are good ideas but i would be calling one of the turbo suppliers and seeing what they sayabout the restrictors first.

[BoostdR]

Just give it to me, Ill fix it. FYI you have one of my dream setups.

I dont personally see those returns being an issue. How is crank ventilation taken care of after the build? Running stock or has added breathers/catch can?

+1 comp and leakdown to proceed.

It has a catch can that runs inline with the stock setup. Same as with my old 26. I'm about to start testing. figures crossed.

[BoostdR]

ok. I have checked a few things.

The Oil pressure when cold is 7kg cm2

when half warm its 4.5kg cm2 (didn't want to let it idle to long)

I have found my front pipes are dripping with oil at the join in the lowest place when untightend. The comp is all good. Perfect actually. The plan is to fit some .8mm banjo restrictors in the bolt that on the side of the turbo.

Will call Enzed 2or pertek....or make my own

[BoostdR]

also , when the oil pressure drops there is less smoke.

[The Dan]

ok. I have checked a few things.

The Oil pressure when cold is 7kg cm2

when half warm its 4.5kg cm2 (didn't want to let it idle to long)

I have found my front pipes are dripping with oil at the join in the lowest place when untightend. The comp is all good. Perfect actually. The plan is to fit some .8mm banjo restrictors in the bolt that on the side of the turbo.

Will call Enzed 2or pertek....or make my own

Move that T piece down the the fitting that goes into the block, then run the lines from 45 deg out of that in an upward direction. -8 is probably a little too small also. The factory hose is like 19mm ID so even a -10 is pushing it

I think this will be your problem.....but even a stock oil pump would have done the same. Pooling in the return line is going to push oil out

[zebra]

Move that T piece down the the fitting that goes into the block, then run the lines from 45 deg out of that in an upward direction. -8 is probably a little too small also. The factory hose is like 19mm ID so even a -10 is pushing it

I think this will be your problem.....but even a stock oil pump would have done the same. Pooling in the return line is going to push oil out

I agree with Dan, also maybe ditch the T piece and change it to a Y piece.

I can see the oil pooling and the lower part of that T piece.

[BoostdR]

can I get a JIC Y piece?

[zebra]

JIC might be an issue then, heaps of AN or NPT ones

[GTRNUR]

I didnt seen anyone else ask the question so I will... Did you not use the factor oil supply banjo bolt in the block that is marked with an M? The factory bolt has a restrictor built into it. I think the restrictor in the banjo bolt is about 1.5mm, to restrict flow for both turbo's. See attached pic.

It would be hard work getting access to that bolt with the engine in the car already... so like you are thinking, making up restrictors for each turbo is your next best bet.

I too have heard time and time again that the GT28 cores have internal restrictors, but if they really do ive yet to actually see them actually do their job and restrict oil flow even a little. I'd put money on the fact that if you were to connect a -3 fitting to any GT28 turbo and blow 100PSI of oil pressure to the feed line it will still leak into the intake and exhaust housings.

If you went down the aftermarket/custom hose path www.atpturbo.com sell a -3 restrictor with a 0.035" restrictor hole for the GT28 cores, that bolts straight into the turbo. In the past just made my own restrictors by filling a brass -3 fitting with solder and then just drilling it. Since the solder melts at 350 degrees there is no chance it will come loose and end up in the turbo.