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Hi guys,

Just wondering how hard it is to install a wide band oxygen sensor on a v88 vipec ecu. Its on a 32 gtr with the full wire in kit and is running the map sensor and a few others. Does anyone know how hard this would be and what advantages it would give other than better fuel ecconomy and the ablity to refine the fuel map on full load. (And yes these are the reasons I was thinking about it.)

And yes I have searched, so if someone can help it would be much appreciated.

Thanks Matt

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If you had bought a Link instead all the support you need is online or by direct phone to the factory! I am not sure if your V88 is eqivalent to the "Storm " or the G4 but here is an example off the Link website (you will need to check with your ViPec support source):

Software online help) is going to be used to tune the engine.

Any Analogue Volt channel may be used to accept the signal from a wide-band EGO sensor

controller. Note that G4 ECU's cannot accept the signal directly from a wide-band sensor. A

wide-band controller works as an interface between a wide-band O2 sensor and the ECU.

The controller should connect directly to the sensor and output a voltage between 0 and 5V.

The sensor calibration (the voltages that correspond to given air/fuel ratios) must be known

and this information must be entered into the ECU via PCLink Tuning Software.

The recommended Wideband Oxygen Sensor controller is the Innovate LC-1 Wide-Band

controller

If you had bought a Link instead all the support you need is online or by direct phone to the factory!

Umm the same can be said for the Vipec (online or call Ray Hall direct) and from what most people say, the Vipec does have better customer support.

fairly straight forward to hook up, wire the wideband output to an analogue input (any free AN Volt input is fine, set the input up to WideBand and pick a free calibration table)

Now you need to setup the calibration table. You should have gotten info with your wideband controler that tells you what AFR it is at 0v and 5v, for example i have used the info for my unit, yours will probably be different if its is not the same unit. ( http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm )

Output Units: AFR

Output Value A: 9.00 AFR

Input Value A: 0.00 V

Output Value B: 19.00 AFR

Input Value B: 5.00 V

now under Fuel > Closed loop Lambda you can use WB Closed Loop or WB Closed Loop V2

Simple question but one I can't get a straight forward answer to.

When hooking up a wideband onto a Vipec/Link, can you simply replace the factory narrowband with the wideband? Will the wideband do the job of a narrowband aswell? As in can you set it to trim out fuel on cruise like a factory ECU and narrowband would? Because I always see a lot of photos of people's cars with two O2 sensors on a single dump pipe of what im guessing to be the factory O2 and then a wideband.

i assume you are reffering to wideband closed loop if so, yes they can do this.

the link/vipec can do both narrow and wideband closed loop O2 control, as long as your wideband supports a narrowband output (like most of the WBo2 units) you could run either wideband or narrowband using just one sensor.

one of the bigger issues is running a wideband sensor so close to the back of a turbo (if it were to be run in the stock location) is that the sensor will get very hot and it probably wont last long, keeping in mind most bosch wideband sensors are ~$100 to replace, this may not be much of an issue to you.

So in say that, would it be best to run 2 sensors. One on each split pipe in a twin turbo setup? So that you don't risk leaning out say the front cylinders in the case of having it mounted on the rear split pipe? Also with the wideband reading on a vipec, shouldn't it stay as close to the selected afr at cruise, etc rather than been on and off like a narrow band?

Also has anyone had any use with the bosch sensor and a the lc-1 Innovative wideband controller? Whats the system like your using TITAN?

And whats the difference between WB Closed Loop or WB Closed Loop V2?

aslong as its before the cat you can run it further down the exhaust where it merges.

havent used the vipec software but given how good everything else is i imagine the closed loop control would be a hell of a lot better than the pulsing of the standard setup.

i have a lc-1 kit, they're supposed to be very good but i've had a few problems with it. might come down to the way its been used but it seams very fragile and temperamental. had it replaced once under warranty and now having similar problems again. knowing my luck tho i'll be the only person in the world having trouble with it

aslong as its before the cat you can run it further down the exhaust where it merges.

havent used the vipec software but given how good everything else is i imagine the closed loop control would be a hell of a lot better than the pulsing of the standard setup.

i have a lc-1 kit, they're supposed to be very good but i've had a few problems with it. might come down to the way its been used but it seams very fragile and temperamental. had it replaced once under warranty and now having similar problems again. knowing my luck tho i'll be the only person in the world having trouble with it

When you say it had problems, what sort of problems? Were you recalibrating it as the manual recommends? And what do you mean the way its been used? Sorry for all the questions lol just trying to work out whats best.

Thanks

I've been looking at the Tech Edge 2J2 (New version of the 2J1) to go with the Vipec. Heard good things.

My mate had a lot of problems with the LC1 aswell. There were a couple of threads floating around regarding them.

When you say it had problems, what sort of problems? Were you recalibrating it as the manual recommends? And what do you mean the way its been used? Sorry for all the questions lol just trying to work out whats best.

Thanks

1st sensor died pretty quick. then shortly after getting a new sensor the controller died, would constantly throw up random error codes. sent it back to innovate and they sent back a new one so i assume there was something wrong with it. now the new unit is coming up with error codes too. not really anything wrong with the way its been used, just been wired up lots of different ways and knocked around a little, but nothing that should hurt it.

Also with the wideband reading on a vipec, shouldn't it stay as close to the selected afr at cruise, etc rather than been on and off like a narrow band?

Whats the system like your using TITAN?

And whats the difference between WB Closed Loop or WB Closed Loop V2?

The ecu will try and stay as close to the target AFR as it can be it 12:1 or 16:1

I am using the Tech Edge 2J1 (replaced by the 2J2) and the vipec plugin ecu, with the wideband closed loop the car acts just like normal closed loop except that its idling and cruising leaner than it would normally (though it doesnt have to) mine normally idles and cruises at ~15.5:1, though you could go even leaner to save more fuel.

V2 looks to have more control when the AFR is out by large ammounts as it can vary the amount of fuel it adds or subtracts based on how far off the desired AFR it is. (smaller more precise amounts when its only a little off and larger less precise amounts when its a long way off)

The ecu will try and stay as close to the target AFR as it can be it 12:1 or 16:1

I am using the Tech Edge 2J1 (replaced by the 2J2) and the vipec plugin ecu, with the wideband closed loop the car acts just like normal closed loop except that its idling and cruising leaner than it would normally (though it doesnt have to) mine normally idles and cruises at ~15.5:1, though you could go even leaner to save more fuel.

V2 looks to have more control when the AFR is out by large ammounts as it can vary the amount of fuel it adds or subtracts based on how far off the desired AFR it is. (smaller more precise amounts when its only a little off and larger less precise amounts when its a long way off)

So in saying that, the v2 would be the better option to run?

In the wideband, doesn't it affect fuel at all times? As compared to a normal narrowband closed loop in which can only act when at cruise or idle?

the v2 would be better to run but more fiddly to setup.

you can set it up to work under which ever of the below conditons you want.

RPM: Low and High settings (so it only operates between X and X RPM)

%Throttle: so if it goes over this % it will deactivate

%Throttle Delta: this will turn it off under sudden stabs of the accelerator if setup (e.g. going from cruise to WOT)

MAP: High and Low settings so it will only operate between X and X kpa

MAP Delta: transient pressure change (e.g. coming onto boost)

Engine temp: closed loop control will not turn on untill the engine is at X degrees

Timer: this disables closed loop for XX seconds after the engine has started, this ignores all the other settings and gives the sensor a chance to heat up before closed loop activates.

if you dont want a particular condition to have any effect on it set them to be outside normal operation conditions so if you didnt want the throttle % to turn it off set it to 0%

I've got a V44 and just bought an LC-1 to install. Already have a bung just after where the front pipes merge. Can't wait to test it out. The 'Mixture Map' feature looks very interesting. It will measure AFR and compare it with target AFR in each cell of the fuel map, then it will adjust the fuel map to get the actual AFRs to match the target. Very cool. Cruising AFR of 15.5:1 should be very nice, too :(

  • 2 weeks later...
the v2 would be better to run but more fiddly to setup.

you can set it up to work under which ever of the below conditons you want.

RPM: Low and High settings (so it only operates between X and X RPM)

%Throttle: so if it goes over this % it will deactivate

%Throttle Delta: this will turn it off under sudden stabs of the accelerator if setup (e.g. going from cruise to WOT)

MAP: High and Low settings so it will only operate between X and X kpa

MAP Delta: transient pressure change (e.g. coming onto boost)

Engine temp: closed loop control will not turn on untill the engine is at X degrees

Timer: this disables closed loop for XX seconds after the engine has started, this ignores all the other settings and gives the sensor a chance to heat up before closed loop activates.

if you dont want a particular condition to have any effect on it set them to be outside normal operation conditions so if you didnt want the throttle % to turn it off set it to 0%

So whats the purpose of turning off the wide band sensor? If its at the best target fuel ratio for that part of the map with the correct throttle reading wouldn't it be better to just leave it on? And why would you have it switch off on the map?

Obviously the benefits of it switching off when you give it a stab would be to prevent the ecm thinking its too rich and so doesn't lean it out and cause det? Is this correct? lol

Thanks again and sorry for been a nob :(

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The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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