Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I have a RB25 in my s14, makes 296rwkw on 16psi with a 3076r, greddy intake, nismo 740cc and motec m48.

I want to keep the rb25 I have, however, I have some JUN cams to suit RB26 (260in 270ex 9.25 lift), I want to use these in my RB25 head. However I'm sure the lift will be too big and it'll bind up.

Now, I have a spare GTR head, minus cams, intake etc. So my question is. Can I just drop the springs and lifter setup out of the rb26 head into my rb25.

Or is there a drama with it? I haven't had a chance to measure the lifters to see if they're the same size or whatever.

And I was hoping someone would have some hands on practical advice/experience on the topic.

I know that NEO heads run a solid lifter setup, but I already have this GTR head so would be nice if this could work to my advantage somehow.

Hoping someone can shed some light on it! Cheers guys.

buckna

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330229-rb25-head-with-rb26-internals/
Share on other sites

Why don't you just use the whole RB26 head?

Paul at Red R Racing is currently engineering a VCT kit to run on the 26 head if retaining the VCT is the reason you wish to use the 25 head.

Edited by blitzxtr

Nah, not worried about keeping vct.

Just want to use the cams, rather than sell them for f**k all then have to fork out extra dollars to buy new ones. haha.

Don't wanna change to 26 head, coz then I have to use different inlet plenum, different injectors, different exhaust manifold etc.

Will the 26 cams work in the 25 head with upgraded springs? I know people use stock GTR cams in a 20det head, which has hydro lifters.

What makes the cams different? between solid and hydro, Realisticly couldn't I just change springs and run the cams? No need to go solid head?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...rb20&st=260

dunno if this helps but if you read it all from memory there is discussion about rb26 cams into rb25 about half way through. i was considering rb26 cams for my rb20 however it seem alot of people have huge trouble getting there rb20s running right after instalation of the 26 cams.

As Ash said, way to much effort for it to work well, the solid cams cause the 25 lifters to pump up and you end up with 0 compression untill they have a chance to get back to normal, you could have the cams reground to suit hydraulic lifters, but you will lose lift and a bit of duration.

i've personally tried to convert a rb25 head with all the rb26 internals

rb25 intake springs are the same height and tension and coil bind as all the rb26 standard springs

rb25 exhaust springs are shorter

Rb26 Exhaust valves are sodium filled and are wider, i had to reem and hone the exhaust guides out which left the guides really thin, cant use the rb26 exhaust guides as the guide itself is much wider, cant drill the head to suit incase too much is taken out and the guide wont hold when the head gets hot (more so being exhaust)

both the intake and exhaust valves are another inch longer then the rb25 valves

rb26 installed valve height is aroung 1.550"-1.600" in a rb25 head with rb26 valves 1.850" and 2.050" on exhaust, i couldn't find any springs to suit without a 6mm spacer

then there is the retainers, the rb26 use a cup style retainer to locate the shim that sit under the bucket

the standard shims are around 0.100" thick i needed some that were 0.280" thick

long story short the measurements create head aches, and without going a 1 off spring set there are no springs available

but;

there is a tomei solid lifter set for the rb25 which ive done rb25 cylinder heads at work and converted them to the shim, which has a stem on the inside of the bucket to compensate for the extra space where the lifter was, and the shim to valve clearance needs to be set on that (wish i knew these existed before i started the work on the head)

you would also need to see if the valve springs will suit the cams

hope that helped

  Gerg_R31 said:
rb25 intake springs are the same height and tension and coil bind as all the rb26 standard springs

rb25 exhaust springs are shorter

rb25 EX valve springs are longer than IN (free length 45,58mm EX and 39,4mm IN)

rb26 springs free length is 46,54mm both IN and EX.

SD-5 page of service manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...