Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

noltec = whiteline plus these days, and I've used their bushes for years in the race car without problems. whiteline have been OK. Also used superpro and whatever the purple ones are (these have been the shortest lasting)

but if it is a pure track car on slicks really you should be running rose joints not bushes

Duncan : .. Im in the dilema or choosing between rose joints or bushes - from reading through these forums ive gathered that rose joints dont seem to last at all? Rose joints would be my preferred option but I believe sydneykid(i think) mentioned they only get a few races out of each set, which i find hard to believe. What are your experiences?..

I also think your getting nolathane confused with noltec, the local BNT here mentioned the nolathane have been taken over by whiteline, and noltec is different.??

Thanks for the replies

Rose joints and sphericals are the only way to go.

Yes they do have a limited life span and wear out in some areas more thab others.

typically if you buy budget ones they last a season give or take,if they don't break first.

They also tend to push the inner sleeves out.

the good Teflon versions are twice the price and last a bit longer but don't normally spit the inner sleeves out the side of the spherical. They will still break but take alot more punishment.

Depending where you use them they will normally break before they wear out.

Ok cheers.

So im on a limited budget-ish,

In terms of arms at the moment the only set I have are castor and HICAS locked. Other mods include locked subframe, whiteline front/rear sway bars, coil overs, full rollcage.

Which arms would you be looking at doing next . And where would you place lower control arm bushes or rose joints in the order of urgency. I really need a better diff however am thinking of locking it for track racing for now, the single 1 spinner VLSD is shite house.. What are your thoughts? Running full sicks, 17"/ 245

Cheers

heres some in car vids, may give you a better idea how it rides , laps get faster from about a 1.30 on in the vid . Theres alot of weight still in there which im taken out over the next week too . 256rwkw.

Edited by tarmac

Use nothing but SuperPro polyurethane for bushing! Noltech and Nolathane are the same thing with a different name and colour, both owned by Greg Nollan, BOTH RUBBISH!!!

Whiteline Plus is not Noltech either. I have been trialing some whiteline plus bushes in my skyline for one of my suppliers at work. So far so good but they've only been in the car just over a month and I only drive it 2 or 3 times a week.

I know for a certainty that SuperPro goes the distance as far as length of life and performance over that life. SuperPro is the best bet!

sorry, very slow.

tarmac, arms are very cheap for chinese stuff, check out the JJR ones from Just Jap. They will last 6-12 months and about 600 a set front and rear.

bigtim....lots of opinion stated as fact. have you used any of the items you are talking about over the long term? more than one set of anything? greg certainly does not own noltec any more, they went broke 2 years ago, and their stock and IP was indeed sold to whiteline who are now selling it as WL+. And they are a much more serious line than the basic whilteline stuff which is targetted at hard street use, not light track use.

  • 4 weeks later...

One topic I'm very interested in is the difference between Whiteline Plus and Nolathane if any. They are both owned by Redranger and they are CLEARLY the same moulds used for bushes.

I've never seen Nolathane used by pretty much anyone serious or pretty much anyone outside the Commodore crowd.

Nolathane is cheaper for a bush that's moulded in the same mould but can it be possible for the quality of material to be different?

Also is it true that Pedders bushes are just re-badged Nolathane?

Edit: I just called Redranger and The Nolathane and Whiteline Plus products are exactly the same thing, just a different colour. Why don't more ppl in the import crowd use Nolathane products more?

Edited by bradsm87
One topic I'm very interested in is the difference between Whiteline Plus and Nolathane if any. They are both owned by Redranger and they are CLEARLY the same moulds used for bushes.

I've never seen Nolathane used by pretty much anyone serious or pretty much anyone outside the Commodore crowd.

Nolathane is cheaper for a bush that's moulded in the same mould but can it be possible for the quality of material to be different?

Also is it true that Pedders bushes are just re-badged Nolathane?

Edit: I just called Redranger and The Nolathane and Whiteline Plus products are exactly the same thing, just a different colour. Why don't more ppl in the import crowd use Nolathane products more?

+1 to what I found out too

I also think your getting nolathane confused with noltec, the local BNT here mentioned the nolathane have been taken over by whiteline, and noltec is different.??

No. Duncan is correct...

Redranger (who have ALWAYS owned Nolathane) merged with Whiteline, but the ownership stayed with Redranger. When Noltec went under their bushes went to Whiteline (as Whiteline Plus) and their alignment products (ie. strut tops) went to Wilkinson.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...