Replace Current Car With...

[sav man]

according to one of the previos owners it's full of some good gear... dog box etc

[Russman]

Sure is

Buy this: http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=16103

That is a lot of car for the money!

[No Crust Racing]

That is a lot of car for the money!

Only missing an RB20 hey Russ

[phunky_monkey]

That is a lot of car for the money!

Definitely mate, I think it would be an excellent buy around the 50k mark. All these temptations...

[Marlin]

I was literally just looking at that...

and this... http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=12991

That's Chris Neale's old thing.... didn't it have an almighty smack somewhere????? Mute point anyway, SOLD.

The ex White's R34 (Genuine N1) was a bargain beside those R33's (with the exception of the Tassie N1)....... yes it needed some sorting but as an investment, walked over them. Has some good stuff on it too.

Edited August 2, 2010 by Marlin

[No Crust Racing]

The plot thickens...

[Kaido_RR]

Sure is

Buy this: http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=16103

looks nice but what is it engine mods?

55k is alot of money but im sure you get alot of RnD in the car.

ActionDan, here are my calculation so far, if i go down the race/rally rego (which i think is only available in perth allows you to drive to and from events and workshops)

R33 GTR : 10-15k imported

Brake Kit: 5k-10k (there is a might big HKS kit which has 6pot front with something like 370*disc and 4pot rear with 355 disc for 8k + shipping) However there is a set for R35 Brembo which i am keeping an eye on for the time being

Suspension: 3k

Suspension arms: 4k ish

Rims: 3k

Cage: 1-3k depends if you go cams or j-spec

then you just need to add tyres and some power and you should have a pretty good setup gtr

Personally i think there is alot you can do to remove weight out of the gtr, i really haven't seen anyone here in aus go crazy with taking stuff out. i have afew ideas i think even with the AWD system you could drop it down to 1300kg ish

(remove abs, aircon, all the interior bits, remove wiring that isn't needed)

Just on a side note, i don't see many people running carbon ceramic disc, is there a reason why other than cost?

Edited August 2, 2010 by Kaido_RR

[sav man]

That's Chris Neale's old thing.... didn't it have an almighty smack somewhere????? Mute point anyway, SOLD.

The ex White's R34 (Genuine N1) was a bargain beside those R33's (with the exception of the Tassie N1)....... yes it needed some sorting but as an investment, walked over them. Has some good stuff on it too.

Is that the one that ended up on it's side in the trees?

[No Crust Racing]

I'd want a street reg'd one, even if i don't reg it at least it can be reg'd later or did you just buy a really cheap import?

Why did you need a big brake kit, how soon were you running out of brakes and why? From what speeds etc, I'm surprised to know that the factory calipers aren't that good if you had some slotted rotors, good pads and fluid plus some ducting?

4k for suspenion arms? wtf?! are you including sway bars in that?

Rims can deffo be had for cheaper.

[sav man]

Just on a side note, i don't see many people running carbon ceramic disc, is there a reason why other than cost?

I can think of 30,000 a end reasons why no one ones them

[phunky_monkey]

looks nice but what is it engine mods?

55k is alot of money but im sure you get alot of RnD in the car.

ActionDan, here are my calculation so far, if i go down the race/rally rego (which i think is only available in perth allows you to drive to and from events and workshops)

R33 GTR : 10-15k imported

Brake Kit: 5k-10k (there is a might big HKS kit which has 6pot front with something like 370*disc and 4pot rear with 355 disc for 8k + shipping) However there is a set for R35 Brembo which i am keeping an eye on for the time being

Suspension: 3k

Suspension arms: 4k ish

Rims: 3k

Cage: 1-3k depends if you go cams or j-spec

then you just need to add tyres and some power and you should have a pretty good setup gtr

Personally i think there is alot you can do to remove weight out of the gtr, i really haven't seen anyone here in aus go crazy with taking stuff out. i have afew ideas i think even with the AWD system you could drop it down to 1300kg ish

(remove abs, aircon, all the interior bits, remove wiring that isn't needed)

Just on a side note, i don't see many people running carbon ceramic disc, is there a reason why other than cost?

For sure it's a good whack of money, but guesstimates from what I see on that car:

Clean 33 GT-R 20-25k

Brakes - 10k

Racepace engine - 15-25k with ancillaries

TE37's 3k

Cage 8-10k

Seats 3k

Harnesses 1k

Suspension 5k

Motec ECU and Dash 10k

Ap Peddle box 3k

Fire system 1.5k

Lexan Windows 1.5-2k

CF Bonnet 1k

Terratrip $500

Total near on 100k - plus labour.

[Marlin]

Is that the one that ended up on it's side in the trees?

There was something about it...... I just can't put my finger on it. It was a loved road car when Chris Neale had it, a showroom pony for Neale's wheels (i remeber he fried the transfer by key-flicking back when it was near new! - $$$$$$), but I think it had a monumental at the Suncoast Classic tarmac rally a couple of years back..... Oldtimers is kickin in....

[Kaido_RR]

I'd want a street reg'd one, even if i don't reg it at least it can be reg'd later or did you just buy a really cheap import?

Why did you need a big brake kit, how soon were you running out of brakes and why? From what speeds etc, I'm surprised to know that the factory calipers aren't that good if you had some slotted rotors, good pads and fluid plus some ducting?

4k for suspenion arms? wtf?! are you including sway bars in that?

Rims can deffo be had for cheaper.

Haven't bought anything yet just trying to price everything up. If you want a rego gtr you are looking upwards of 20-25k landed and comp.

You can get stockish r33 gtr for around 900,000 to 1,250,000 yen its the complance cost that kills you

brakes i want to go big because i got fade wih my 4 pot ap (same size disc as gtr but bigger pads size) on my r33 gtst after 5-6 laps.

Suspension arms i want to replace pretty much everything with ik forumal gear, so i can play with the bump steer and run -3.5 degrees of camber.

Rims just ruff est i will most likely need to go 18-19inch depending on disc size and i want to run min 9.5 front and 19 rear with a +5 offset

[No Crust Racing]

You dont have to actually comply and reg it, just get a car that has the potential to be later. If it's imported as race/rally then it can never be reg', if it's imported as a normal car but left as track use only then at least you can legally comply it later if u want.

Only 5-6 laps and you got fade with better calipers, slotted rotors, good pads, good fluid and brake ducting? christ how fast are you going and what temps were you seeing?

Looking around and there are quite a few R33 GT-R's in the 19-22k mark that already have some basic mods and are complied and reg'd already in the country so be sure to look locally too.

Edited August 2, 2010 by ActionDan

[Kaido_RR]

You dont have to actually comply and reg it, just get a car that has the potential to be later. If it's imported as race/rally then it can never be reg', if it's imported as a normal car but left as track use only then at least you can legally comply it later if u want.

Only 5-6 laps and you got fade with better calipers, slotted rotors, good pads, good fluid and brake ducting? christ how fast are you going and what temps were you seeing?

Looking around and there are quite a few R33 GT-R's in the 19-22k mark that already have some basic mods and are complied and reg'd already in the country so be sure to look locally too.

no brake ducting, had N1 master, endless ccrg pads, endless slotted disc, and shell racing fluid. My gtst was not stripped , only had the rear seats out.

I am very hard on the brakes very late. I think what got them was the back straight 200km/hr + then braking very late and dropping my speed to 100

[No Crust Racing]

Ahh gtst. Be interesting to see what GT-R Brembo's with all those add ons plus some good ducting would do.

[JAGR33]

looks nice but what is it engine mods?

55k is alot of money but im sure you get alot of RnD in the car.

ActionDan, here are my calculation so far, if i go down the race/rally rego (which i think is only available in perth allows you to drive to and from events and workshops)

R33 GTR : 10-15k imported

Brake Kit: 5k-10k (there is a might big HKS kit which has 6pot front with something like 370*disc and 4pot rear with 355 disc for 8k + shipping) However there is a set for R35 Brembo which i am keeping an eye on for the time being

Suspension: 3k

Suspension arms: 4k ish

Rims: 3k

Cage: 1-3k depends if you go cams or j-spec

then you just need to add tyres and some power and you should have a pretty good setup gtr

So realistically that brings you to 40k and you haven't touched on engine/ancillaries/labour etc....

Makes these 55k well setup cars a bargain in my opinion.

Trust me when I say it will cost you double that if you were to build one from scratch when you want to be at the pointy end of the field....

Just my 2c...

[Kaido_RR]

So realistically that brings you to 40k and you haven't touched on engine/ancillaries/labour etc....

Makes these 55k well setup cars a bargain in my opinion.

Trust me when I say it will cost you double that if you were to build one from scratch when you want to be at the pointy end of the field....

Just my 2c...

oh i 100% agree, i was just saying my cost so far in my build (well just pricing it up atm).

I'm a person who likes to do everything them-self and build to my needs, so buying an already built race car is not really an opinion for me unless it was a euro-race car (that is a different story)

cost me more in the long run but for some reason i like it that way

[JAGR33]

Ahh gtst. Be interesting to see what GT-R Brembo's with all those add ons plus some good ducting would do.

Standard 33 GT-R brembos will be at OK if you have less than 300rwks and doing 3 lap sprints (in a 33 GT-R), although you would have to have decent aftermarket slotted rotors, decent pads and decent fluid with decent braided lines. You'd want to make sure you inspect them thoroughly and bleed them before each track day aswell....

[JAGR33]

oh i 100% agree, i was just saying my cost so far in my build (well just pricing it up atm).

I'm a person who likes to do everything them-self and build to my needs, so buying an already built race car is not really an opinion for me unless it was a euro-race car (that is a different story)

cost me more in the long run but for some reason i like it that way

I guess you have to be happy at the end of the day but for me if a car that's already built and had all the money spent on it with proven results at the track, how can it get better than that??? Personally there's no substitute for experience and if the car has been built by a reputable workshop it's worth every cent...

Again my 2c of course....