Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 291
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can meet her at DECA, plenty of others have.

I believe Dane and Chris have heard her squeeling in the passenger seat from riding shotgun on the skidpan.

There's also some great pics from Taco Baz on Facebook lol, good times.

Edited by ActionDan
You can meet her at DECA, plenty of others have.

I believe Dane and Chris have heard her squeeling in the passenger seat from riding shotgun on the skidpan.

There's also some great pics from Taco Baz on Facebook lol, good times.

Excellent new's but.. The womens, they should never drive the GT-R.

In australia, first you get the money, then you get the GT-R........then you get the women.

do not listen to troy. he is a secret GTR lover. it's like homophobes who make all the gay jokes but deep down love the company of men (like marlin and fatz). troy shots loudly about how much he hates GTR's cause deep down they are all he can think about. I'm on to you Roy!

OMFG Dane I checked that car out when it was for sale and drooled.

Such bad timing for it to be available now :( :( :banana:

I have a massive mental boner.

Yeah, it's a farkin nice car! I'm tempted to buy it myself :ermm:

do not listen to troy. he is a secret GTR lover. it's like homophobes who make all the gay jokes but deep down love the company of men (like marlin and fatz). troy shots loudly about how much he hates GTR's cause deep down they are all he can think about. I'm on to you Roy!

Two truths are entailed in your post Richo.

1. I do love GTR's, but I'll only track someone else's these days (because I don't have the dollars to build what I believe to be a truly track reliable one).

2. I do love you sucking my cock.

In my opinion, stay with the S13, or at least the CA18. Those motors are so under rated and they are extremely responsive with the right supporting mods.

All you really need to do is put a decent turbo on with the supporting mods, change to 5 stud with S14 brakes, do the suspension work, and with ~300rwhp coming from a CA18 you will be surprisingly fast around any track. The CA18 motors are bloody bulletproof, Nissan's strongest rated motor....and also, them having a cast iron block does help with the "sturdiness".....also the CA18's are cheap to fix if anything goes wrong with them...as opposed to an RB26...

In my opinion, stay with the S13, or at least the CA18. Those motors are so under rated and they are extremely responsive with the right supporting mods.

All you really need to do is put a decent turbo on with the supporting mods, change to 5 stud with S14 brakes, do the suspension work, and with ~300rwhp coming from a CA18 you will be surprisingly fast around any track. The CA18 motors are bloody bulletproof, Nissan's strongest rated motor....and also, them having a cast iron block does help with the "sturdiness".....also the CA18's are cheap to fix if anything goes wrong with them...as opposed to an RB26...

True but it won't fill the void, so it'll go :ermm: Someone else can do that to it though it already has the S14 brakes and is at least getting a T28.

I will be there pouring oil under GTRs as usual. The look on their faces when they see oil under their cars, then the usual..."Not again!" Ahh classic! :(

LoL can't wait!

All my funds are tied up in a house I'm building at the moment :D

Wonder if he would take the Silvia and $50... plus a slab :banana:

So you mean you put us through all this and you have no intention of buying one Dan.

:(

:(

:ermm:

I do, but as I said at the start, it's down the track a touch and dictates what I do with the S13.

I actually PM'd that guy about his... Dunno hiow I'd swing it with the house on the go but where there's a will there's a way. Epic car..

I do, but as I said at the start, it's down the track a touch and dictates what I do with the S13.

I actually PM'd that guy about his... Dunno hiow I'd swing it with the house on the go but where there's a will there's a way. Epic car..

I think everyone at superlap jizzed a little over that car. It was quick and had a genuine road presence about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...