Getting Wheel Caps Fabricated Out Of Billet/alloy Or Plastic Inj Moulding

[DaveO74]

Thanks for the link Tim but there the wrong size

Mmmmmmm, Ill get in touch with THENIG and ask him about the brittleness of the rapid proto stuff. I think he mentioned something about some other type of plastic or resin or whatever it is thats a lot stronger.

Ill update in this thread

Cheers

[THENIG]

I tried making a few of the rays flat caps for my lmgt4's a while back, made a 2 part silicon mould of one of my existing caps & knocked up a load of fakies. Got the painter at work to colour match them to my bronze wheels then spent about $35 on the O-rings.

Chucked them on & they looked perfect, how smart am I, these things are worth like $40 each new, I could make a load & sell them! driving round a few days later & it was nice & sunny, plastic warmed up with the heat & they fell out...

Luckily I found a set of real ones for sale & just sucked it up & bought them.

With the rapid prototype parts are you talking about using them to make a mould or are you actually getting a few made up to use as the actual centre caps? Just because rapid pro parts are actually reasonably brittle, oh & they dont like heat/sunlight as it tends to make them fall apart.

We had a machine when I worked at ford design & we pumped out heaps of parts but they're only good for static displays, you wont be able to use them on your actual car.

have you tried looking on yahoo japan? Because I just did & found two ads, same seller but selling them individually. one cap two cap

cheers, Tim

Dave, I would suggest buying the ones that Tim has linked through import monster if they are the right ones. It will be cheaper and less stuffing around & they are guaranteed not to fall off.

If you still want to go ahead with rapid prototyping, I am happy to help, here is a PDF of the material specs that I was recommending they be made out of using FDM method.

MSpecAU_PCABS.pdf

FDM is basically a miniature hot glue gun that uses PC/ABS rod instead of glue that heats & extrudes a very thin bead of molten plastic that traces over the profile & builds the up the model layer by layer. Because the rod is made out of 100% same material you would inject into a die (because PC & ABS is dirt cheap & tuff, just don't breath the fumes if it burns) it is not the same as the material they use in the other methods Tim is describing that use UV light or lasers to cure a liquid or powder material (there are some other methods too). I have used all of these before and generally they can be brittle along the grain, degraded over time under sunlight, usually only good for 'fit for purpose' displays, they have a finer surface finish than FDM but mechanically inferior.

The stuff I was suggesting softens at i think 112deg. C, has carbon black inhibits UV degradation, it is designed to be used as you would if it were injection molded if you can live with the coarser surface (once bead blasted & painted is ins't noticeable).

I would have to compare the two material specs side by side to give a definitive answer.

As far as Tim's experimentation with silicon tooling some parts up that softened & fell off, that kinda sucks. Would have thought they would have lasted a bit longer.

Not too sure if its the same stuff that the rapid prototype places like Femero,Redeye or Quickparts use. My understanding of a 2 part epoxy that hardens at room temperature won't melt at all, it will it just burn once it reaches a certain temp, but thats not my expertise.

Try and buy them secondhand & use prototyping as a last resort.

I will still ring up and find out for you though for a plan B

Cheers

Rob

[lidz]

Just to clarify the ones I made that fell out in the sun where made out of a 2 part urethane. I made the mould out of silicon, then cast a bunch of parts. The flat caps are relatively thin though which didnt help things.

My experience with rapid pro is with stereolithography (SLA) & Objet parts, both of which while excellent for static models/displays are no good for general use. From a quick look at that link though the FDM parts do sound a lot more durable so you might be ok.

My other experience with rapid pro parts though is that they arent cheap, especially if you need someone to scan or create your caps in cad.

Dave when you say the wrong size are we talking diametre? If so what do you need? Just be aware a lot of rays caps are interchangable, for instance the ones I bought were off 17" te37's but fit perfect on my 18" lmgt4's.

Perhaps email jesse streeter & see if he can track some down?

cheers, Tim

[DaveO74]

Hey guys,

Sorry for the late reply I got caught up being a dad!

Going by the measurements on the Yahoo add they are:

"- Diameter: Approximately 61.5mm

　　●RAYS VOLK RACING C ULTRA

　　 removed from 14 inch aluminum wheel"

Where I just measured mine properly with a tape and they are 80mm at the base (which would make the bit with the clips on it around 78mm) and 30mm high, so I dont think they are gonna fit my rims unfortunately.

Tim have you got any picks of your caps I can have a look at?

And Rob Id still like to know if it would be viable if you dont mind making a call. If it ends up being a big pain in the arse for all involved Ill give it a miss but by looking at the pdf it sounds ok to my laymans knowledge of this stuff.

Just depends really on how expensive an exercise it will be I suppose.

Thanks for the input guys.

Oh yeh, Tim is jesse streeter a SUA member or a contact of yours?

[lidz]

haven't got a photo of my exact caps but in the photo below its the flat style.

Jesse is an import agent, google his name for his website & do a sau or nissansilvia search for some feedback. I've used him before & service was great. Importmonsters great for you to find stuff but Jesse might be able to track things down for you.

good luck!

[DaveO74]

Thanks for pics Tim,

so do you reckon the lmgt4 caps would fit my older lmgt's??

(at a guess of course)

[lidz]

so do you reckon the lmgt4 caps would fit my older lmgt's??

(at a guess of course)

I doubt they would dave, they're quite a shallow design & are held in place by an 'O' ring rather than the larger style clips like the ones you posted a photo of.

I'd be contacting a couple importers like streeter, or theres a load that are sponsers here & on nissansilvia, & just asking if they can track you down a few. They might have better contacts then just keeping your eye on yahoo japan. That said its also worth looking at upgarage.com & gooparts.com in case theres some listed there.

cheers, Tim

[DaveO74]

Thanks Tim,

I was lucky enough to have a look a some lmgt4 caps today at powerplay imports and your right they won't fit.

I've got the guy I get all of my jap parts from (performance wise) on the job as well and he is getting all of his jap contacts on the hunt as well so after I've exhausted all these avenues and your advice I may still have to go down the prototyping route with THENIG

let's hope something comes up eh

[PLYNX]

PM sent and you can paint polyester resin but I just ad colour the resin itself.

[DaveO74]

Does the finished product end up being just as hard as the originals would be? As in do they go soft with heat etc?

[PLYNX]

Yep they sure will

[Bliksem]

I have LMGT2's as well and would be interested in some caps if you end up making some.

[PLYNX]

Does the finished product end up being just as hard as the originals would be? As in do they go soft with heat etc?

Just noticed there were two questions ;

Yes they will end up just as hard as the original and no the wont soften with heat !