Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the best bet at the moment is to get a generic G-Zone/Nismo remap and run an Emanage ultimate or F-con pro for adjustment to suit our mods, fuel and climate. The Emanage is certainly the cheaper and easier option.

With a quicker reaction time I could have got into the 12's at Calder last weekend (I hit speed cut 3/4 way down the track too), not bad for a 2 ton car. :O

... and a sleepy driver :P

Remember though that the Yanks (north of the border) have stuff-all in the way of eManage tuners... much like we have no Fcon tuners down here.

If there were "local" tuners for both, I would take the Fcon over the eManage ultimate... IF the budget permitted lol

Edited by iamhe77
I think the best bet at the moment is to get a generic G-Zone/Nismo remap and run an Emanage ultimate or F-con pro for adjustment to suit our mods, fuel and climate. The Emanage is certainly the cheaper and easier option.

With a quicker reaction time I could have got into the 12's at Calder last weekend (I hit speed cut 3/4 way down the track too), not bad for a 2 ton car. :O

Sorry Scott,a quicker reaction time doesnt give you a faster 1/4 mile time.It only helps you beat the bloke alongside you who may have had the same 1/4 mile time as you. i.e Your time is measured from the moment your car passes the timing beam, after you have reacted. :P

It certainly will, My best 60 foot time was 2.3 seconds which is pretty crap really.

Am I the only one on here with drag racing experience?.Again,sorry Scott,anyonewho has experience will tell you that your time starts after you cross the beam,no matter how quickly or slowly you react. icon1.gif.

Am I the only one on here with drag racing experience?.Again,sorry Scott,anyonewho has experience will tell you that your time starts after you cross the beam,no matter how quickly or slowly you react. icon1.gif.

That 60ft time started when you crossed that beam.

Not this day... 9 second cars were waiting for a few seconds on the line and it was adding seconds to their time. Autostart was turned off for some reason. A car took out the reflector array early on which I think was the reason, he stood his Torana vertical and went sideways into it. :/

post-63525-1281347774_thumb.jpg

What he means is your time only starts as soon as you break the beam on the start line you staged into.. so a reaction time has jack squat to do with your 60ft, 1/4 mile time etc..

surely you all know this tho.

thanks Andrew

obviously they don't. :/

You are correct, I have never been to Calder before. Who gives a crap anyway, I had great fun.

Scott,i'm sure you did.It is great fun.I look forward to more news on your cars future development.Good job. :/

  • 1 month later...
ok, now Ive had my M35 for a month or so im looking at mods to do to it,

getting the TV tuner soon, at same time I will put a decent alarm/imobalizer on it and change to english,

after that im not sure where to go...

its got nismo suspension,

Nismo catback exuast,

Nismo Dash,

is it worth looking into doing the turbo to cat?

ECU? I heard Mines does one aswell as dolphin does one.... which is best bang for buck?

just wondering what else others have done to there M35's that is well worth the change...

Did you get an immobalizer for how much and how effective is it.

have you modified anything yet?

I'm tinkering with it a little. I've got two custom kill switches on it and just had a m80 installed so not sure yet.

Started looking at where weight can be saved and little 'tuning' things that can be done.

Will update a little later

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...