Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, ive had alot of soarers and supra's and pretty much every car i own i change the factory lights to blue led. Factory dull green sucks so naturally when i got my new skyline i started working on changing them.

I havent completed the whole interior but all thats left is a few like the climate buttons,key surround and pwr window button light.

For the interior roof light I just have a replacement multicluster led in blue,and for the boot curtesy light I have a T10 wedge multi led in blue which are both just replacing the bulbs so dont really need explaining.

Anyway for those who want to change the dash, the easiest way is to buy 4 x multicluster blue wedge style led's either from any autobarn/dicksmiths or better yet get the kits on ebay,sometimes they work out cheaper.

Once you have them just remove your dash cluster and on the back there will be 4 major bulbs(plastic surround is usually brown) and just replace them with the blue ones. Here is a link -

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Blue-6-LED-Dash-Lig...=item19b708ca91

Check first before you put the whole dash back together as sometimes they might not be the right way around,but dont worry you cant blow them by putting them in the wrong way. Remember they have to be multi directional cluster led's, which mean they have a bunch of led's facing in multiple directions, otherwise you dash wont light up evenly and look like crap.

Now for the climate screen and clock, there is a few ways you can do this.

What I did for my r33 is remove the climate controll unit and clock, take measurements of the plastic that covers the display. Then go buy some tinted perspex in whatever colour you want, cut it to size, and place over the display. I dont have a place around where I live that sells perspex like this so I ordered 2 x precut sections in blue from "Northern Plastic Supplies" (they have a website you can email them with an enquiry)

It comes in 3mm thickness. For the r33 skyline you need= 1 of 5cm x 4.5cm and 1 of 8cm x 2.5cm square section of tinted perspex. So it needs to be coloured but not a solid colour( light needs to pass through it) Cost me $32.50 posted to me and took 1 working day.(yes i know i got ripped off, but where I live there is no other choice really)

I didnt have to attach it in any way, i just sat it over the light then put the covers back on and it held together, but if you have trouble with this you might need to apply some silicon or glue to the corners to hold it there.

Now the problem I had was that the blue perspex was that it wasnt dark enough, it ended up lighting up more of a aqua colour. So what I had to do was cut apart an old hair gel container that was made of clear dark blue plastic and cut sections of it to cover the perspex to make it darker. Turned out pretty good not perfect but I didnt want to have to re order another 2 bits of perspex.So when you get some blue perspex make sure its a very dark blue otherwise it wont light up a regular electric/cobalt blue.

But as i said, you dont have to make it blue, you can make it any colour you want.

As for the button lights, all that needs is to remove the 2 x factory bulbs in the screw wedges found on either side of the back of the unit and replace with 2 x blue ones, they are T5 size. You can either buy these already in the little holders that just screw straight in off ebay,only like $2.00 for a packet of 2(make sure you get the right size). Its easy to tell the different sizes, they are basically either T3(3mm),T4(4mm)or T5(5mm).Here is a link -

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2pcs-T3-T4-T5-Neo-W...=item2eaedf9146

Or you can do it the hard way and carefully remove the led off the screw holder and replace it with a blue one,but becuase the polarity is different you will have to solder on a resistor or it will just blow the bulb. Thats something i never do becuase its just easier to buy the ones off ebay because they are always high polarity resistant so dont blow, unlike soldering on resistors to single led's becuase its a bit of trial and error and mucking around.

Anyway, sorry i dont have a full picture diagram but i have a few pics off my fone as I was doind the climate and clock screen to give you an idea of whats involved, very easy to do,and cheap as. Well worth doing if you hate your factory dull ass bulbs, if you want to improve the dash but not have it coloured you can always install white led's as they will make the dash look brand new and alot brighter.

Soon I will do the key surround and pwr window button lights and write a tutorial on that aswell.

pm me if anyone has any questions, cheers,rob.

post-75302-1280378281_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378298_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378312_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378329_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378344_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378391_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378417_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378432_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1280378466_thumb.jpg

Nice!

So the clock - you made a new cover for it?

The AC control - The blue plexi goes between the LCD and the smoked factory cover?

Cause the perspex they sent me wasnt the colour I wanted( a darker shade of blue) i cut some dark blue plastic to go over both peices of perspex to make them both darker,then yes put the covers back on.

I did my electric window button, Very good. Its not all that heard either

what sort of led did it need, did you have to re solder a new one onto it? Oh and when i said "tinted" i meant it has to be coloured perspex but still able for light to pass through it if you know what i mean.

I might do my pwr window button tomorrow and put some pics up

Ok guys, did the pwr window button yesterday, very easy!

All you need is a-

phillips head screwdriver

a couple of flatblade screwdrivers

soldering iron

tinsnips

1 x 3mm or 5mm led in any colour you want(as you guess of course i did blue)

Now the led on its own i always buy from a Dicksmiths,Jaycar or Tandy electronics, I bought about 50 of them so i'm not sure what they cost individually but I think around $1.50-$2.50.

First remove the whole plastic cover arm thing from the door, unscrew the 4 phillips head screw holding the pwr unit to the plastic bit

Pop the window lock button off,use a few flatblades to carefully remove the 2 halves of the unit,then remove the circuit board from the plastic.

You will see the single green led in place,now remember which way the little metal bit inside the led angles down because this is the difference in positive and negative. Im not sure which is which, so i just remember to re-solder the new led the same way.

So cut the green led leaving at least 1cm of legs poking up, then cut the legs on the new led doing the same thing and leave a bit of legs on it to play with.

Heat up your soldering iron and resolder the ends together, arfter solder has cooled check how strong it is cause somtimes when you put the cover back on it can push on it and break the connection.

Now becuase the led is round and bigger than the factory green led,what i did to make it fit was turn the pwr window button cover over and where the little slot is for the led to sit i put the soldering iron in it and melted around it just a little to make the gap wider and round,so this way the led will fit easier and have a better chance to light up evenly.

Now before you put the whole thing together,just put the circuit board back in cover to make sure it fits good,put the back on,plug it in ,turn on the ignition and see if it works first.If its all good,put it all back together and bobs your uncle.

This was pretty easy considering i'm used to doing about 4 or 5 led's in a soarer or celsior pwr window unit,and they are alot trickier to remove beleive me.

Ok I did take pics but the quality is too big and wont let me upload them,once i figure out how to make them smaller i'll put them up.

All thats left to do know is the key surround,climate controll buttons and cig lighter so keep and eye out i will be posting up the "how to do's" on them next.

cheers,rob

i done the ignition barrel one today its 1 led needs a resistor as all do. take all panels around it of it slides of the standard globe is soldered in it does not pull out. not to long bout half an hour of mucking around

post-48089-1281256229_thumb.jpgpost-48089-1281256166_thumb.jpgpost-48089-1281256219_thumb.jpg

i done the ignition barrel one today its 1 led needs a resistor as all do. take all panels around it of it slides of the standard globe is soldered in it does not pull out. not to long bout half an hour of mucking around

post-48089-1281256229_thumb.jpgpost-48089-1281256166_thumb.jpgpost-48089-1281256219_thumb.jpg

Cool, i gotta do the ignition barrel light next thanks,here's some better pics i got my camera working.

post-75302-1281322358_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281322411_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

how did you change the Key illumination ring???? iv dont my dash ac clock and sunroof light and interiour light and i just dont know how to change the Key illumination ring

i was wondering if theres a straight swap out or soldering and shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...