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No idea what to search for without refining too far and getting no results...

If you're going to run without a boost controller, leaving it completely up to the actuator to control the boost, where is the BEST place to tap the hose from? This is to ensure that the intake manifold pressure is not HIGHER than the actuator setting. Should it be tapped before or after the cooler? If before, would immediately after the turbo be most appropriate?

No I'm not having problems with boost lol, I still haven't touched my engine. This is just for a bit of knowledge.

ty :(

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No idea what to search for without refining too far and getting no results...

If you're going to run without a boost controller, leaving it completely up to the actuator to control the boost, where is the BEST place to tap the hose from? This is to ensure that the intake manifold pressure is not HIGHER than the actuator setting. Should it be tapped before or after the cooler? If before, would immediately after the turbo be most appropriate?

No I'm not having problems with boost lol, I still haven't touched my engine. This is just for a bit of knowledge.

ty :(

the most common spot is just before the start of the crossover pipe because you cant tap into the crossover pipe and its most accurate because thats whats actually going into the manifold, straight after the turbo would give a different reading to whats actually in the manifold

sweet, thanks. That's what I was thinking lol.

Also, does anyone have the link for the DIY metal unduction pipe to replace the piece of shit rubber piece that sucks itself closed? I can't find it and I really want to do it.

EDIT: found it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...=sucking+closed

Edited by Trozzle
Unlikely. but for that price, I personally wouldn't bother.

hmmm, yea im gonna do the pipe trick lol

is it hard to get the induction pipe off? i look into my bay and i cant even get to the ring clamp thats on the turbo...

Tap it off the FPR actuator hose. That will give you boost pressure in the manifold (at the back of the valves).

Theres prolly a better place to tap it into than the FPR. the last thing you want is something going wrong, and the FPR loosing its vac feed.

The shorter the line the better too. Having a long vac hose to the actuator can slow the opening and cause creep.

Here's my thoughts on it...

Take the boost gauge line from the intake manifold because that's exactly what the engine see's, and that's what you are aiming for when tuning the boost.

Where the actuator vac line comes from, (in my car I have a high pressure actuator and with a direct vac line between the cold intercooler pipe and actuator I'm seeing 18psi+ at the intake) This is not what i want.

I don't have a nipple on the hot side but i would rather take it from there, so if there is a couple psi drop over the intercooler i will have the WG opening a couple psi earlier, thus giving me a lower manifold pressure with out using boost control.

I know i could just use a 1bar actuator but i want the actuator to hold set pressure till redline.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the lower setting actuator needs less exhaust manifold pressure to force the WG open while the actuator is trying to keep the WG closed, thus giving boost drop.

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