Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends on what you really want to spend. NIStune's are around $250 or so, whilst Power FC's around the $800-$1000

NIStune, is just a motherboard, which allows your stock ecu to become completely programmable.

Power FC's are a whole new computer, with hand controller, so you can do 'on-the-spot' programming.

NIStune's are not legal, and neither are Power FC's, advantage of NIStune would be that it is virtually impossible to detect from a coppers point of view, apart from the USB port that is made to allow the USB cable to plug into the laptop to tune,whilst a Power FC is recognisable from its Apex'i casing. Hand Controller is detatchable..but still, if a cop wants to have a look inside your kick panel, you are a sitting duck.

My point of view anyway.

NIStune's are not legal, and neither are Power FC's, advantage of NIStune would be that it is virtually impossible to detect from a coppers point of view, apart from the USB port that is made to allow the USB cable to plug into the laptop to tune,whilst a Power FC is recognisable from its Apex'i casing. Hand Controller is detatchable..but still, if a cop wants to have a look inside your kick panel, you are a sitting duck.

My Power FC cleared regency earlier this week... he took a good look inside the kick panel. :D

NIStune's are not legal, and neither are Power FC's, advantage of NIStune would be that it is virtually impossible to detect from a coppers point of view, apart from the USB port that is made to allow the USB cable to plug into the laptop to tune,whilst a Power FC is recognisable from its Apex'i casing. Hand Controller is detatchable..but still, if a cop wants to have a look inside your kick panel, you are a sitting duck.

+1 however I will clarify that some Nistune boards use the stock consult interface - so effectively there is no way to tell unless one disassembles the ecu housing (and then removes the outer circuit board) ... nistune supports the std nissan consult interface too so there is also that...

tis illegal yes but virtually impossible to spot unless they know specifics.

also, powerfc circuitry fits inside stock nissan ecu housing, mounting it in a stock housing is a common stealth mod

-D

+1 however I will clarify that some Nistune boards use the stock consult interface - so effectively there is no way to tell unless one disassembles the ecu housing (and then removes the outer circuit board) ... nistune supports the std nissan consult interface too so there is also that...

tis illegal yes but virtually impossible to spot unless they know specifics.

also, powerfc circuitry fits inside stock nissan ecu housing, mounting it in a stock housing is a common stealth mod

-D

ok thanks I got a r32

The differences are that P-FC has 20x20 maps and Nistune has the factory 16x16 maps. This really doesn't make a difference as the ECU will interpolate between the map points. So really unless you are making huge power like 600+hp and you need to stretch you map to cover a large load range you will not be at a disadvantage, and really an extra 4x4 points isn't increasing it dramatically anyway.

The Big Difference.

Nistune retains Knock Control where as P-FC does nothing to control knock except flash a LED light on your dash. So Nistune will richen you fuel map and pull timing out ignition map if a knock incident is detected but P-FC will flash at you while the engine is pinging it's tits off.

The cost.

Nistune: Board ~$250, Software/Licence ~$200, Cable ~$100.

Really all most people will need is the board, if you want to play (at your own peril) or data log then you can get the licence and the cable. Not sure whether the OBD2 tunable boards need the cable.

P-FC: ~$1000 second-hand, FC-Logit ~$450.

Without FC-Logit you can't do the things you can with nistune and the software.

The differences are that P-FC has 20x20 maps and Nistune has the factory 16x16 maps. This really doesn't make a difference as the ECU will interpolate between the map points. So really unless you are making huge power like 600+hp and you need to stretch you map to cover a large load range you will not be at a disadvantage, and really an extra 4x4 points isn't increasing it dramatically anyway.

The Big Difference.

Nistune retains Knock Control where as P-FC does nothing to control knock except flash a LED light on your dash. So Nistune will richen you fuel map and pull timing out ignition map if a knock incident is detected but P-FC will flash at you while the engine is pinging it's tits off.

The cost.

Nistune: Board ~$250, Software/Licence ~$200, Cable ~$100.

Really all most people will need is the board, if you want to play (at your own peril) or data log then you can get the licence and the cable. Not sure whether the OBD2 tunable boards need the cable.

P-FC: ~$1000 second-hand, FC-Logit ~$450.

Without FC-Logit you can't do the things you can with nistune and the software.

Knock control from Nistune is great however you will find that the controlable map points are very limited(up to 4500rpm only) So after this RPM both nistune and PFC will let the engine Ping...just the PFC will let you know about it

The Resolution of the Nissan map is less than the 20x20 of the PFC which gives smoother more accurate response at any power. Especially in the transition onto boost area where high resolution can do wonders to drivability.

They are both good for there respective cost.. but you do get more functionality when you pay more.

What do you mean by this?

the controllable map points are very limited(up to 4500rpm only)

There are two completely different Maps. One regular map and knock map both maps are 16x16. When a the knock count gets about a certain point it switches from one regular to the knock map which has all the 16x16 resolution that the primary map has and isn't limited to 4500rpm.

Are you saying that after 4500rpm it won't switch to the knock map?

What do you mean by this?

There are two completely different Maps. One regular map and knock map both maps are 16x16. When a the knock count gets about a certain point it switches from one regular to the knock map which has all the 16x16 resolution that the primary map has and isn't limited to 4500rpm.

Are you saying that after 4500rpm it won't switch to the knock map?

yes, the controllable area's of the Map are limited. I'm sure the Nistune guys can fill you in. Since your also in Adelaide...we most likely talk to the same person =) Especially if he drives a mazda 121 with a twin cam.....

Never heard of the nistune not having knock control after 4,500rpm. Probably better off spending the extra money and getting a PFC.

Don't get scared off a Nistune based on a "he said they said" basis. Call Nistune themselves and speak to the guys direct. Nistunes retain knock sensing throughout the rev range ... PFC will just flash a light at you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...