Jump to content
SAU Community

R31 with diff whine, how long will it last?

cameron_bol
 Share

Recommended Posts

cameron_bol Rookie

cameron_bol

Posted
Posted

I just got my car back from a mechanic after someone interested in buying it booked it in. This mechanic tried to tell me that the diff could last between 500km and 5000km, the buyer was there too by the way. Now my brother also has a skyline, but his diff whine is so much louder than mine, and has been so for far more than 5000km without getting any worse. How can this guy try to tell me that i have as little as 500km left in my diff when I've been told by other mechanics that it could last forever? Is this just a ploy between the mechanic and buyer to get me to lower the asking price? Oh, and how much would a replacement diff?

JezR31 Mentor

JezR31

Posted
Posted

have u ever changed the diff oil? it could be a stuffed axle bearing. youll still be able to drive it, its only when it gets really load that i think u need a new diff.

that happened in our r31 at around 670000kms. but we didnt get a new one we just got the old one fixed because they were quiet expensive at the time new.

its now got to 220000kms on the original diff

cameron_bol Rookie

cameron_bol

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have u ever changed the diff oil? it could be a stuffed axle bearing. youll still be able to drive it, its only when it gets really load that i think u need a new diff

I haven't personally changed the oil, but I've only owned the car since July last year. I just want to get a realistic idea of how many k's there are left in it.

Edit: I've got 212,000 on the clock by the way.

JezR31 Mentor

JezR31

Posted
Posted

if you hear the noise while you accelerate and get of the petrol it's usually a gear backlash or worn gear issue. but if its a constant noise its most likely to be a bearing problem.

though yours brother diff sounds like its on the way out.

r31nismoid is right, alot of the r31 diffs have diff whine. its not something uncommen

skyguy3804 Collaborator

skyguy3804

Posted
Posted

I used to have an R31 (for about 8 years!). Since the word GO, the diff had whined ALL the time (as you said, around 80km/h) - was worried about it at first, until I kept getting the same story that THEY ALL WHINE, THEY ALL DO IT. As I said, I had the car for about 8 years and NEVER had any problems with the diff (and yes, I wasn't easy on the car). When I sold it to my parents 2 years ago, it had 365,000 on the clock. They've still got it, the diff still whines, and they have had absolutely no problems with it at all.

cameron_bol Rookie

cameron_bol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, the problem is that it has just scared off my most promising buyer so far. He just rang today and told me that he doesn't want to buy it now, specifically because of the diff. There was no convincing him. I really need to sell it, I move down to melbourne for uni 3 weeks. AHHHH!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...