Jump to content
SAU Community

Sourcing V-series Panels?

Matt B
 Share

Recommended Posts

Matt B Rookie

Matt B

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just purchased a v35 sedan, am absolutely loving it, but am annoyed by some marks it has on the bonnet.

I've been trying to track down a replacement bonnet with little success so far.

Have had a chat with a mate at the local Nissan dealership and i can get one freighted across from japan for around $770, but its an 8-12 week wait. I've done the usual internet trawl and called a few importers but haven't had any luck yet.

Does anyone know where i may be able to source one from? The car is the regular v35 silver so i can't imagine it'd be overly hard to find.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331310-sourcing-v-series-panels/
Share on other sites
Matt B Rookie

Matt B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys,

thanks for the quick replies!

As for the yahoo japan idea, that has crossed my mind, but i'd rather get one locally. If i have to import it i'll just get it through Nissan.

Chris, if your mate happens to get a silver bonnet, could you shoot me a pm, i'd be very keen!

Thanks

matt

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

matt,

he has a yard in osaka and packs containers worldwide :) last time I was at his storage shed in brissy I *THINK* he had one. where are you? ( I can arrange to get it shipped to you.)

win4ever Community Regular

win4ever

Posted
Posted
is it that bad that they can't be resprayed/repainted?

Yeah... i would think repainting it will be a cheaper option. It's a factory Nissan colour, so it should be pretty easy getting the colour code and have the bonnet repainted instead. :huh:

Matt B Rookie

Matt B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys, bonnet has lots of small dints from a kind stone shower, making it too hard to repair/repaint.

Chris, i'm in melbourne, but would be happy to pay shipping, if he does have one that would be ace, just let me know what he is chasing for it via pm :)!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...