Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I had an attempt at installing my Sparco Torino II racing seats in my R34 the other day, and discovered it is going to be a very tricky process. The Sparco's have universal rails (I contacted Sparco and apparently they don't make specific rails, they only do universals), which of course are not going to be perfect. But I found my original R34 seats are mounted on little feet that are 'bolted' onto the rails of the seats and then the feet are 'bolted' to the floor. I say 'bolted' for lack of a better description, the fastening that attaches the feet to the rails is very strange, can't be undone by a tool. It is sort of like a pop-rivet style fixing... I can upload pictures if anyone thinks it will help.

Basically I want to ask if anyone has installed some seats in their R34 before, either with universal rails or specific rails, and how you overcame this problem if you encountered it? These are really nice seats, it would be a huge shame to not have them fit just because of these little mounts.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331753-installing-sparco-seats/
Share on other sites

You'll need specific rails for your car. In your case, 34GTT rails as 32/33 rails won't work with RWD 34's.

The universal rails are there for you to modify to fit your application, which sometimes isn't the best/safest/easiest option.

Try and find someone who has a set of bride/recaro rails lying around and have a test to see if they fit sparco's. If so, you can source rails from those brands :ermm:

Was considering drilling out rivets ^ But I'm not sure if the feet will line up with the holes... And then I've f**ked my original seats? :)

What's my cheapest option here? Bride rails are like $315 each, that's ridiculous :(

I had to look, the Torinos aren't side mount. Besides finding a specific rail made for that seat to go in that car there aren't alot of options. Side mount seats are better because generally if you can find a rail made for your car you can use it with your seat. Good luck. I had a bottom mount sparco a couple year ago for an S2000 and came to the same situation you are in. My option was to sell the seat and find something better suited.

Sliders as in the universal rails?

How would I know what rails to buy though, wouldn't they be different widths and things so they might fit my car but not the seat? Bride rails are out of the question unless I can get some second hand ones for cheap, I'm not spending 700 bucks on a pair of rails, that's stupid.

Sliders and rails are different.

The slider is what makes the seat slide back and forth for adjustment.

The rail is what the car and seat are connected to.

Most rails have sliders built in. And most seats have a slider already bolted to them.

A universal rail still needs to be vehicle specific, as the universal bit is for the many types of seat out there.

So buy a universal rail to suit your car and drill new holes to match the seats.

you can buy drift branded bases (rail) from autobarnz. they make em for all kinds of cars.

this is just the base without sliders. i have a driver and passenger base in my car, didnt mount the sliders.

bolted the seat straight into the base, real low :)

Yeh I definitely want the sliders though

Hey Mate, I bought a pair of Recaro seat rails that also fit Bride seats, but I am about to buy R34 GTR interior so I will not be needing the rails, not sure if will help you out, but if you are interested send me a PM and I can send you some pics and send through some measurements etc...

Just to let you know these rails came out of a R34 GTT

P

you can buy drift branded bases (rail) from autobarnz. they make em for all kinds of cars.

this is just the base without sliders. i have a driver and passenger base in my car, didnt mount the sliders.

bolted the seat straight into the base, real low :D

How much are they?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...