Jump to content
SAU Community

Advise Needed Please

YF34R

By YF34R,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

YF34R Collaborator

YF34R

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys,

just after some advise here as iam going to be hiflowing my turbo this week.

i got 2 choices

choice 1: (standard Hiflow)

this is pretty much standard, and they guy said will get me about 250 atw once its done.

choice 2: (PU Hiflow)

this is a bit diff to the standard, bigger housing n such and will get me about 280 atw

The guy said standard is more responsive and will spool at about 3.5, 3.6 and the PU will spool at about 4k revs

my car is a daily and i like to have fun here n there, not a fan of track n calder park n that.

i dont really knw much about turbo's so though i ask the experts here ;P

so which 1 should i got for?

Edited by YF34R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331757-advise-needed-please/
Share on other sites
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

What are you asking mate? Which one to go with?

For a daily, go with the responsive high flow. You might get bored of it down the track but its better to go incrementally than for big power straight away, both for getting used to it and deciding when enough power is enough. For a rear wheel drive daily, 250rwkw is pretty well fast enough particularly if power delivery is spread across the rev range. There's not many "traction holding" situations where you'll need more than that. Going straight to the lag of the PU highflow will piss you off if you're used to standard response...another reason to step up incrementally.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
What are you asking mate? Which one to go with?

For a daily, go with the responsive high flow. You might get bored of it down the track but its better to go incrementally than for big power straight away, both for getting used to it and deciding when enough power is enough. For a rear wheel drive daily, 250rwkw is pretty well fast enough particularly if power delivery is spread across the rev range. There's not many "traction holding" situations where you'll need more than that. Going straight to the lag of the PU highflow will piss you off if you're used to standard response...another reason to step up incrementally.

what are your supporting mods?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

280rwkw with boost coming on 4000rpm is average. Should be sooner than that for that kinda peak.

My GT30 (600hp version) was on 4000-4200rpm and was 270rwkw @ 17psi, would have been over 300 with 20psi and that was with a .82 rear housing, not a machined OP6 (which is smaller)

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ask 5 people who have both versions and compare

the std GCG hiflow has been bulletproof for years and should have lots of known users

the PU hiflow is relatively new, different bearing type, and may have other unknown issue, ask 5 users who have one

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted
ask 5 people who have both versions and compare

the std GCG hiflow has been bulletproof for years and should have lots of known users

the PU hiflow is relatively new, different bearing type, and may have other unknown issue, ask 5 users who have one

I've been using the gcg hi flo for 5 years,16lbs of boost daily,no probs. :)

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

did you fit it yourself or a workshop - if you, how hard, any mods to make it fit, how long if workshop - how much $ to swap

did you send yours away and then get the hiflow back? how long did it take

any install instructions come with it

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
i got another Question.

say i get an EPA right and i have the hiflowed turbo.

are they ganna pick on and i got get a stock 1 in?

That's the whole point of doing a highflow turbo!

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted
did you fit it yourself or a workshop - if you, how hard, any mods to make it fit, how long if workshop - how much $ to swap

did you send yours away and then get the hiflow back? how long did it take

any install instructions come with it

It was sent to gcg,came back in a week mechanic fitted it straight on,it looks stock on the out side,but inside steel wheels and bored out. :(

Oh my mech gave me mates rates, $1585.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
×
×
  • Create New...