Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah what i have heard about the toyos is that they are softer, so good for light cars, out laps or short motorkhanas and hill climbs, but go off quickly after multiple laps in a heavy car (eg a GTR :mad:). Ive got no direct experience in that though so could be totally wrong.

As a matter of interest how much does your car weigh?

The car is about 1260KG with a driver and "Some" fuel (I can not recall how much we had in it at the time, probably 20L or so)

I bought the Dunlops (Whoops, 03G not 01G, just had a look) at the start of this year as the previous set of 888's were well down and I had a wet hillclimb coming up, no one had the Toyos on the rack so I grabbed the Dunlops, when I bought them Stuckeys (Melbourne) reckoned that the Dunlop was the softer of the pair.

There are three compounds about in the R888. G, which is the hard one, GG which is the meduim (Which I have) and GGG softs, which would be unusual to see, indent order only. The Dunlops are sitting in the shed as our sponsor pitched in a set of the R888's before the Phillip Island 6 hour so we pulled the part worn 03G's off and shedded them until the Toyos wear out so we had brand new tyres going into likely wet weather at the 6 hour (Which turned out to be a beautiful weekend)

The Toyos did about 500KM around the Island at a relatively relaxed pace (2:00 lap time nomination for one bloke and 2:06 for me, where the car as it is should be good for somewhere in the low 1:50 range) I reckon they are about half worn out.

There is a much softer Toyo that I would not use on the R31 for anything but a hillclimb, the RA1. I think they are the Toyo wet compound. One of the blokes at Mallala was running them (And going pretty quickly) but reckons they were pretty old and hard. I think in new condition you would melt them in a sprint on an R31.

I have had the Toyos go off but that was at a Winton Sprint on a 35 degree day doing 15 minute runs, they started to get a bit sloppy after about 10/12 mins at sprint pace.

  • Replies 381
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The car is about 1260KG with a driver and "Some" fuel (I can not recall how much we had in it at the time, probably 20L or so)

yeah that's a fair bit lighter than the full trim 32gtr - 1460 + 90 kilos of meat behind the wheel + 40kg of fuel = 1590kg.

I have had the Toyos go off but that was at a Winton Sprint on a 35 degree day doing 15 minute runs, they started to get a bit sloppy after about 10/12 mins at sprint pace.

my typical session would be 1 out + 5 flying laps @ ~1:22 = 6m50 at full sprint pace, A048s hold their own over that distance, Toyos might not like the extra 330kgs :down: still, when the a048s run out i'll be looking around for something else so might see if the harder 888 compound suits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...