Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

negative, they replace factory parts UNDER the car

youre thinking of a rear strut brace. something the M35 doesnt appear to have as an aftermarket part.

plenty of underbody bracing available!

No strut towers to bolt a strut brace onto!

Ok guys, looks like there's enough interest to justify a group buy ;) . So I'll be organising this, look out for a group buy thread, it'll have firm prices and hopefully delivery times etc.

Thanks to those who've let me know so quickly :( , and obviously, anyone else who's interested, let me know!

yeah, on this website it says they fit all 4WD models.

Thats a good thing. I think the 2WD ones have different bars and suspension.

At a guess, the 2WD would likely be V35 parts.

Ok guys, a bit of an update.

I have just been on the phone to Todd, from Signature Swaybars, we have a go for a sway bar group buy! :)

I'm hoping to get down & see him late this week, or early next week with some sample bars for him to look at (thanks bbenny) and we should have a solid price and also an idea of his lead times to manufacture. Once that's done, I'll be posting in the Group Buy section of the forum, and linking to our discussion.

Huge thanks to all you guys who've PM'ed me with your interest; you've gotten this off the ground! Now we can all benefit. :thumbsup:

And to anyone else who might be interested, you know what to do.

Cheers, Dale.

Ok, update.

I have a set of sample bars for Todd to work from now (thanks again Ben!) and was intending to get down to drop them off to him today, unfortunately, just had 2 wisdom teeth taken out and it's giving a bit more curry than I was expecting :rofl2:

So I'll be going down to drop them off tomorrow and I'm hoping I'll have the group buy up by Wed/Thurs.

Apologies for the delay, was only supposed to be having one done but you know how these things go.

Ok gents, update.

Todd has the sample bars now :ph34r: , I'm going to give him a couple of days to sort us out with a firm price, then I'm going to put up the group buy.

If you are Sydney based I'm going to try to save a bit on postage & essentially sort out a meet up to distribute the goods. If you wish to have bars freighted, Todd is happy to do this. Please PM me your postcode, and Todd will be able to give me a price for shipping.

Todd has confirmed his lead times for manufacture at 3-4 weeks, and given we appear to have the minimum requirement, I'm planning to run the group buy until mid December, which should see us delivering Bars in the 2nd week of the New Year.

Thanks everyone for your patience, more info as it comes to hand.

Obviously, if anyone else is interested, shoot me a PM, and you too can be a part of the Sway Bar goodness.

Cheers, Dale

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...