Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah considered a Civic but for motorkhana type stuff nothings worse than understeer... major fun killer

seen some impressive results from pretty basic civics tho... prices for aftermarket Honda parts are much cheaper than skylines/silvias etc

yeah huge aftermarket part scene in the US can get parts pretty cheap

problem is engine cost as the Type R engine hold there values the 1.8L dc2 type r engine will set you back 5-6k for complete cut (engine,gbox,lsd,ecu) and i think k20 is around 10k

now thats GTR money ahaha

If she thinks it is cute and likes it then there is no way you can get it... in my experience, the more they hate it the cooler it is. Like when I had my 240Z and my missus would not step foot in it!

haha too true... the missus likes the GTR but if I do any spirited driving she complains that her neck hurts from trying to keep her head upright! lol

she has never referred to it as 'cute' however

I'd chose a 1.8 MX5 out of your choices, BUT, I'd be buying or building an EB through EL Falcon six! They're cheap, they're tough, they're fast, and setting them up well is a known qty.

I personally love the MX5, but I do like a roof, I feel a bit safer.

I'd chose a 1.8 MX5 out of your choices, BUT, I'd be buying or building an EB through EL Falcon six! They're cheap, they're tough, they're fast, and setting them up well is a known qty.

Yeah the Saloon car Ea falcons can be had for nix and they are already setup. and if you get bored with the 4l six drop an alloy headed windsor in it and have a mini V8 supercar

EA is an interesting choice.

Usually V8 means dollars, bigger brakes to carry the weight, bigger boxes and diffs to handle torque etc.

But EA gear is so cheap now. Hmm...

so ULGY but ahaha

go the s13 with quads! there are sooo many parts and im sure you could get it to around 1000kg

and the quads look so sexy!

Tomei-SR20ITB-B.jpg

yeah considered a Civic but for motorkhana type stuff nothings worse than understeer... major fun killer

seen some impressive results from pretty basic civics tho... prices for aftermarket Honda parts are much cheaper than skylines/silvias etc

:D really, where.........

a falcon six hey... I like the idea but kinda want someting small/nimble as a bit of a change... been in long wheel base cars for years... cheers for the suggestion tho, i never would have thought of that

and yes shiny bits are out I'm afraid... this will be the kind of car that when something breaks you see how many more laps you can do before it catches fire;)

still I'm surprised nobody has stood up for the old E30... great cars, I've driven a few and some 5 series from the same era and they're lots of fun

still european and budget don't really sit well together

:D really, where.........

most stuff on the hondas is smaller than skylines (maybe not silvias)... wheels, tyres, brakes, exhausts etc seem to be cheaper due to size... obviously when you start talking turbo kits, electronics and forged engines its pretty similar... still buying 4 of everything is cheaper than buying 6

I think an MX-5 would be your best bet overall, with the weight requirement, fun factor, and potential to move to a race series later on big plus points. Oh, and you get the wind in your hair :)

Though an Autech S15 would be pretty cool if you could nab one cheap cheap... though unlikely from what I've seen.

It's an ugly POS but it was cheap, complied and it's pretty fast, even by turbo standards

IMG_8953_resize.jpg

It was unregistered but really would have just needed a good clean and a pea shooter exhaust to get through a blue slip

Cost me 6500, threw in maybe 1.5k worth of bits off my skyline and 1500 worth of tyres

Did 1:09's at wakefield

1:22 flat at OP GP

1:54.5 at my first outing ever at EC with whatever alignment was on it when i bought it and nowhere near enough camber.

Quads are the last thing you need. big f**k off cams are the first :)

And i forgot to mention reliable as hell. Fuel it, track it, park it until the next one.

Edited by badhairdave
Fuel it, track it, park it until the next one.

hit the nail on the head there!

I don't want to be tempted to buy any shiny things for it... or feel bad that I didn't change the oil or wash it...

I just don't want to pay a premium for an N/A just because its P plate legal now and all the 18yr olds want to pretend they're in a turbo import

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...