Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm keen to dabble in tarmac rallies and hill climbs in the future and the missus is keen to be my Nav.

The question then becomes, how did the seasoned Nav's among you get started?

Is there a standard system for calling corners? I've done plenty of reading and watched plenty of footage and the systems seem to vary as to whether it's a scale of 1-5 or 1-10 and whether 1 is the tightest turn or 5/10 etc.

I'm thinking we might have a bit of play run at DECA this weekend but I imagine it's not going to be easy without some sort of intercom system, what are other people using that doesn't require special helmets?

Cheers

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332588-tarmac-navigation/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

"special" helmets aren't required as such. A terraphone system can be fitted to most helmets, but of course the car needs to have the intercom system installed also. They are available from shops like revolution racegear.

Without the intercom system however, a strong voice and hand signals come in handy!!

The type of system for calling corners varies as they suit different people. It's really a personal choice. I have used the 1 to 6 system in the past and it seems very popular. We used vandenburg pace notes and a sample of them can be found here:

http://www.vandenbergmotorsport.com/upload...ample_notes.pdf

You should find the sample helpful in explaining the different kinds of calls and what all the shorthand symbols mean.

Had a look at that link, that seems to make a lot of sense to me straight of the bat which is a good sign. It looks like there's some things missing though, granted it's only a sample.

I might try and dig up a more comprehensive set of pace notes.

Cheers

There are no right or wrong way to do pace notes. I have personally used 1-6 and 1-10 notes in my short stint just to see what I prefer. I know a guy who uses 1-3 notes!

It's what ever you are comfortable with.

And then on top of the "corner" and "distance" notes you can add other things as well. Some people put braking or turning markers into their notes as well as the standard Care, Caution, Danger markers. It's obviously easier to start off simple and build the amount of data you want called as you - and your nav - gain experience. For example I'm at a point now where I will add extra caution style notes - but I don't yet add any go faster type notes (aka changing a basic call of 5R to a Flat Out 5R if you think it should be taken full throttle)

But for example in Targa Rookie I just purchased a set of those Vandenberg 1-6 Notes and for the most part drove soley with those un-altered. And I personally think for anyone starting out buying a set of pre-done notes - which can be purchased for pretty much all of the major events - is the easiest way to learn the ropes. There are several options available to you in both 1-6 and 1-10 notes.

Also - when I first started out I was using the Blue Ant bluetooth intercom headsets. They worked a treat and stick onto any helmet - you just needed to remember to charge them every night and turn them off between stages.

http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/1222/Interphone-Motorbike

Thanks Snowy, what does a set of those notes set you back if you don't mind me asking? I might pick your brain a bit more at DECA too.

EDIT: I love how that saying makes me sound like a Zombie...

Edited by ActionDan

Costs depend on the event and if you are a first time buyer or a repeat buyer.

But for example - here is the price list of the "Official" Octogon / Targa notes supplier - http://rallynotes.com.au/course_notes/ew/6/1386/1/271.pdf

Others can be had for cheaper (Vandenbergs) - but there is less data in their notes. So its a personal preference thing.

Great thanks.

I can' imagine too many people would be able to do adequate recce for something like Targa Tas unless you're local but it might be a bit different for sprint and hillclimb events.

Edited by ActionDan

Just looked at that headset, seems pricey when two of those would be just under $500 and a Terraphone club amp and two headsets would be under $400 from Revolution. They are wireless though but wit the Terra you can output the audio to your vid cam as well.

Edited by ActionDan

I used a Graytronics intercom in my last car (which I sold with the car). It can be run off a 9V battery (which is what we did - just threw a new battery in for every event) or can be connected to the car's 12V power via the supplied power cable. The quality is fantastic ( better than terror phones) and they're cheap - I think mine was under $200 complete, though I'll have to check that. The mic boom attaches to the helmet with an allen bolt clamp, rather than dodgy double sided tape that falls off. The sound quality was so good I could hear all of the rattles in the car through my nav's microphone - had never experienced that with a terror phone before.

I know some people who have used blue tooth intercoms, which is good for communicating to the driver when the Nav's at the control table and the car's still waiting to enter control. DOn't know if tarmac rallies use the same system so can't say whether you'll have the same advantages.

Of course you can buy Stilo or Peltor intercoms / helmets with sound cancelling technology, but I think the price might be a bit steep for your budget.

Just checked through some history, and looks like the Graytronics was closer to $360, rather then the $200 I remembered. Still, good price for something that is a league above the Terratrip stuff. (Note the headsets are compatibnle with Terratrip, so if your nav has terratrip headset, then they can still nav with the Graytronics intercom, and vice versa.

current clubman terraphone and two full face helmet headsets would be 380 and will output to video cam, that's just through revolution I haven't looked anywhere else. How is the Graytronics a league above? What else does it do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...