Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, a hairpin is a 1, as it's the tightest turn there is

A sweeping turn is graded by how tight it is, eg,

in 1-6 graded notes a 90 degree turn is a "R3" (Right Three), and if its a long and sweeping turn, it'll be "LR3" (long Right Three) or "VLR3" (Very Long Right Three).

Geddit?

You can also have "tightens then opens".

So it might be "9 left tightens then opens", some of which you can take at a 9 pace say with a wider road that you can hit the apex and use the road on the other side, but others you need to be more cautious about.

Have found this out the hard way :P

And the vice-versa of what Paul says too. ^^^

Biggest thing to remember is, the notes make sense because they do the job correctly when written correctly.

Eg. If your wife reads you a page of notes at the dinner table, you should be able to close your eyes and imagine that ribbon of road.

The 3rd dimension not often spoken about is the timing of calls. Every driver is different, some can remember a kay ahead, some can't. Some want the calls constantly repeated, some don't.

Personally, I particularly like the way Tony Sullens and Julia Rabbite call their notes, it suits me, and that is how Timmy times them when he calls for me. Watch footage over and over and over again, and you'll get the drift :P

Hot tip don't skimp on the intercom side... it might not seem important, but it damn well is.... If it fails or isn't crispy clear you can easily mishear a call and game over. I have used the BlueAnt, Terraphone and Stilo and im tellin ya now, Terraphone = No. BlueAnt is a great idea and works ok, but they way they pair and sometimes the volume isn't ideal, If they could makes these a bit better an easier to use they would be ideal. Its definately Stilo WRC or nothing, clear, noise cancelling no electrical feedback etc. You can get universal headsets to put in any helmet for not much more than terraphone and you should be able to pickup a WRC amp for a reasonable price.

As for notes, its all about the info the driver wants to know about, ive been with several different people and each one has a different preference.

IE Marlin like lots of info like 'Flat Crest @ House', '4R @ Sign', 9L Tightens 7L @ Pole' etc etc

But other guys ive been with don't want to know about that stuff as they find it a distraction.

Personally when I started I had no clue, and had no one to offer guidance, I got given a Vandenberg Motorsport Pace note book and away we went. After that I made a big effort to research alot more and got alot of help from TargaTom on these forums. I watched ALOT of incar video (Brocky from Targa 2004) and endless other Youtube vid's. THen I got the opportunity to jump in with Marlin for a couple of events and thats where I learnt everything :P

This is what i use

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index...Primary&CDO=

been using it for 3 years now its a great little unit, i agree with Tim though the Stilo WRC would be the way to go, although ive never had any problems with the trophy version

I really worry about the cheap bluetooth stuff on ebay.. my dad is a serial ebayer and so much stuff he buys might work ok one day then the next day dead... its the old addage you get what you pay for.

Stilo WRC Amps: http://www.bsmsport.com.au/ecommerce/index.php?productID=184 $338

Thats as cheap as you can buy them anywhere.

Maybe starting out with a terraphone is an option and if rallying is for you (which it will be), upgrade. you might be able to sell it off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...