Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hy guys, i have an r34 gtt with stock bov, which is plumback. if i was to disconect the recirc pipe off it, and block it off, therefore venting it to atmo, is that what it would be??

An atmospheric bov?? Can it do damage this way??

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332604-quick-bov-question/
Share on other sites

I think he means block of where the plumb-back pipe is recirculated too. And it won't do any damage however your car will stall. So do not do it. You need aftermarket engine management to run an atmospheric venting BOV without issues stalling. Simple as that.

Try it :) , it will be a nice learning experience

You cant vta a stock r33/34 bov. I only JUST made it out of my street before it stalled and died :worship:

If you want vta, buy a real vta bov.

Edited by r33cruiser

and the factory ones were never meant to run like this.

This thread should be locked and the OP banned, and forced to sell his car and never own a turbo again.

But give it a go, let me know how many women dive into your car naked when they hear the fully sic whoosh.

Can it do damage this way??

Getting back to the original question the answer is no.

Most of us will suggest giving this modification a miss as there is nothing to be gained other than a bit of noise and a shitty return to idle/stall from doing it.

It might get the ladeez neked though. :)

Getting back to the original question the answer is no.

Most of us will suggest giving this modification a miss as there is nothing to be gained other than a bit of noise and a shitty return to idle/stall from doing it.

It might get the ladeez neked though. :)

Here is another reason why u should not do it...

Depending on your religous beliefs (ie your belief on whether or not the universe is unlimited and therefore infinite) there is only a certain number of english letters (abcdefg etc etc) left on the internet.

So many letters have already been wasted on useless debates regarding this topic!!!....Even if you do this mod and get the same results as the 10,000,000 other people who already have (you would know if you searched first), another tedious debate would ensue and hence, the END of the internet would be that little bit closer...

Think more about the future of our humanity!!! Don't do it!!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...